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Cheese from Portugal, Setúbal peninsula
Raw ewe milk is salted, warmed to 30–32 °C and set with a cardoon-flower (thistle) extract in 45–60 minutes. The soft curd is worked and pressed by hand into small moulds. The cheeses then ripen at least 16 days in two rooms, where they first sweat a sticky "reima" that is scraped off, then dry slowly into a soft, buttery cheese. Made in 5 steps over 17 days – 25 days. The longest step, sweat in the sangria room, takes 8–12 days (DGADR 2021) and runs at 8–14 °C (DGADR 2021). Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Lactococcus lactis (dominant), with Lacticaseibacillus zeae, Lentilactobacillus kefiri, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and Latilactobacillus sakei does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 8–12 daysSet[azeitao-ce-2021] | Sweat in the sangria room |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 8–14 °CSet[azeitao-ce-2021] | Sweat in the sangria room |
| Raw ewe milk · Kept below 4 °C for no more than 48 hours; no heat treatment beyond warming to 30–32 °C[azeitao-ce-2021] | |
| Cardoon flower extract (Cynara cardunculus) · The only coagulant; made a few hours ahead, amount set by each cheesemaker[azeitao-ce-2021] | |
| 25 g per litre at most | Salt · Added to the milk before setting[azeitao-ce-2021] |
| Starter | none; raw-milk flora |
Total time across the recorded steps: 17 days – 25 days
What changes: Raw ewe milk is salted and warmed to 30–32 °C
Output: warm salted milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Azeitão descends from Serra da Estrela and is also set with cardoon, but it is far smaller (100–250 g) and ripens at least 16 days instead of 40–60. Ripening runs in two rooms, one where the cheese sweats and is scraped and one where it dries.
Made only from raw ewe milk, kept below 4 °C for at most 48 hours and from brucellosis-free flocks. One study found that keeping the cheese at 25 °C raised tyramine and putrescine, so it should stay cold after ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Around 1830 Gaspar Henriques de Paiva, from Belmonte in the Beiras, had a cheesemaker from Castelo Branco come each year to make Serra-style cheeses in Azeitão; one local shepherd learned the method. His son made the cheeses smaller, and they won medals at Lisbon shows in 1888 and 1905.
