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Cheese from France, Lyon
Cervelle de canut is a dressed fresh cheese, not a ripened one. The ferment is the fromage blanc, a fresh curd set by lactic bacteria with a little rennet. The firm curd is beaten with salt, pepper, a dash of vinegar, olive oil and fresh herbs, and eaten at once. Made in 4 steps over 4 h – 6.5 h. The longest step, ripen pasteurised milk with lactic cultures, takes 4–6.5 h (Cahier des charges du Label Rouge n° LA 04/18…) and runs at 20–30 °C (Cahier des charges du Label Rouge n° LA 04/18…). Lactic acid bacteria, which sour the milk; French rules require a living flora when sold as fromage frais does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 4–6.5 hSet[lr-faisselle] | Ripen pasteurised milk with lactic cultures |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 20–30 °CSet[lr-faisselle] | Ripen pasteurised milk with lactic cultures |
| Acidity | pH 5.9–6.7 → 4.2Set[lr-faisselle] | Add a little rennet and let the curd set by acid |
| Fromage blanc · Firm rather than smooth[guichet2022] |
| Salt and pepper[guichet2022] |
| Vinegar (a dash)[guichet2022] |
| Olive oil (a dash)[guichet2022] |
| Freshly cut herbs[guichet2022] |
| Starter: lactic cultures in the fromage blanc |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4 h – 6.5 h
What changes: Lactic cultures go into the milk and start to sour it
Output: soured milk.
Microbes at work in this step
lactic bacteria start to turn milk sugar into lactic acid
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cervelle de canut is a fresh lactic cheese turned into a dish. The fermentation ends with the fromage blanc; what makes it cervelle de canut is the beating with vinegar, oil and herbs, which no plain fresh cheese gets.
French Label Rouge rules for faisselle, a close product, keep the curd at 0–6 °C and limit E. coli to 10 per gram. Keep the dressed cheese cold and eat it fresh.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli and Enterobacteriaceae, each limited to 10 per gram in Label Rouge faisselle.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The dish is linked to the canuts, the silk weavers of Lyon's Croix-Rousse, who rose in revolt in 1831, 1834 and 1848. One story says the name mocks them for being too poor to buy lamb's brains. It was long called claqueret, and the present recipe is credited to chef Paul Lacombe of the restaurant Léon de Lyon in 1934.
