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Cocoa, coffee and spice from West Africa
Fresh cocoa beans are scooped from the pod with their sweet white pulp and piled in heaps or boxes under banana leaves for four to seven days. Yeasts, then lactic and acetic acid bacteria ferment the pulp, the heat and acid kill the bean, and the beans are then sun-dried. This is where the precursors of chocolate flavour form. Made in 6 steps over 21 days – 34 days. The longest step, sun-dry on raised surfaces, takes 7–14 days (Camu N. et al. 2008) and runs at up to 65 °C (International Cocoa Organization (ICCO)). Yeasts and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 7–14 daysMeasured[camu2008][camu2007] | Sun-dry on raised surfaces |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 65 °CReported[icco] | Sun-dry on raised surfaces |
| Acidity | pH 6.5 → 4.7Reported[devuyst2020] | The bean dies and browns inside |
| 250–1,000 kg per heap | Fresh cocoa beans with pulp · Pulp is about 12% sugars, pH 3.3–4.0, up to 10% pectin[camu2007][codex-cocoa] |
| Banana or plantain leaves · Laid under and over the heap[camu2007][icco] | |
| No starter · Yeasts and bacteria come from the pods, hands, tools and old leaves[devuyst2020] | |
| Starter | spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 21 days – 34 days
What changes: Starting material: fresh cocoa beans in their white pulp
Output: wet beans with pulp.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cocoa is fermented on the farm as a whole fruit mass. The microbes work only in the pulp; inside the bean, acid and heat from the pulp kill the seed and its own enzymes make the flavour precursors. The main split is heap versus box, and how often the mass is turned.
Ochratoxin A is made by Aspergillus moulds when fermentation or drying goes wrong. Codex advice is to open pods within 7 days of harvest, ferment 4–7 days and no longer, turn the mass, start drying at once on raised surfaces in layers no deeper than 6 cm, and bring the beans below 8% moisture. Protect drying beans from rain and dew, never re-wet them, and throw out mouldy beans.
Hazards the sources name: Ochratoxin A-producing moulds (Aspergillus carbonarius and the A. niger group; fewer A. westerdijkiae, A. ochraceus and A. melleus).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Cocoa was first used in Mesoamerica; residue in Honduran pottery from after 1150 BCE points to a fermented pulp drink. The microbial succession was worked out in the 20th century.
