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Fermentation Atlas

Vegetables from Heian-kyō

Engishiki pickles (延喜式 漬年料雑菜), Heian court tsukemono塩漬

The Engishiki, a 10th-century code of court rules, lists the yearly pickles of the imperial kitchen. Spring and autumn vegetables were salted at about 3–6 % by volume, or packed in sake lees, hishio or ground grain. A 2016 reconstruction found that the low salt worked only when the vegetables were weighted under their own liquid with no air. Made in 5 steps over 30 days. The longest step, let them sour, takes 30 days (Tsuchiyama H 2016). Salt is 4–5 % (Tsuchiyama H 2016). Acid-producing bacteria, probably lactic, at counts close to the total bacteria in reconstructed eggplant and turnip pickles does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step30 daysMeasured[s1]Let them sour
Salt4–5 %Measured[s1]Salt the vegetables
AciditypH 3.3–5.3Measured[s1]Let them sour
Fully documentedVegetables30 daysMore vegetablesMore from Japan

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceCourt quantities from the Engishiki (Naizenshi chapter) as read in a 2016 study; 1 koku is about 71 L in modern measure. The reconstruction used about 5 % salt by volume, for example 50.7 g salt on 845.3 g eggplant.
2 koku (142 L)Bracken · Engishiki salt pickle[s1]
1 to (7.1 L)Salt · For the 2 koku of bracken, about 5 % by volume[s1]
4 koku 5 toYoung ginger · Engishiki lees pickle[s1]
1 koku 4 to 2 shō, and 4 koku 2 toSalt, and liquid sake lees (shirukasu) · For the 4 koku 5 to of ginger[s1]
Starterspontaneous; or sake lees, hishio, rice or soybean as the pickling bed

Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days

Start
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What changes: Spring greens or autumn melons, eggplant and turnip are gathered

Step 1 of 5
Gather the season's vegetables
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: spring or autumn vegetables.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

The Engishiki pickles were salted at only about 3–6 % by volume, far less than long-keeping modern salt pickles. The reconstruction showed they kept only when weighted under their own liquid with air shut out, so the authors think many were short-term pickles.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Kasuzuke (糟漬)Packed in liquid sake lees (shirukasu): melon, wax gourd, turnip root, eggplant, small water-onion, myoga and young ginger, all autumn vegetables.
  • Hishiozuke (醤漬)Pickled in hishio lees (kasu-bishio) or liquid sake lees, with salt.
  • Susuhori (須須保利)Turnip pickled with salt and ground soybean or rice, ground in a stone mill, often called the ancestor of nukazuke. It also appears on 8th-century wooden tablets from Nara.
  • NiragiSpiced with ground elm bark.
  • Egutsumi (荏裹)Wrapped in perilla leaves; the method is unknown.

Safety

Low salt (about 3–6 % by volume) needs an air-tight, weighted pack; in the reconstruction, mould grew within about a week whenever air got in. The authors note that long keeping today needs 10 % salt or more, and 12 % or more for six months.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The Engishiki was compiled in the early 10th century; its Naizenshi chapter lists the yearly pickles (tsuke-nenryō zassai) of the imperial kitchen. A wooden tablet from the Sairyūji temple site in Nara names susuhori, and the Nara research institute links it to the Engishiki's turnip susuhori made with salt, soybeans and rice.

  1. [s1] Tsuchiyama H., Minemura T., Ioroi R. and Mifune T. 2016, 『延喜式』に見える古代の漬物の復元 (Restoration of the ancient pickles in Engishiki), Bulletin of Tokyo Healthcare University 11(1)paper
  2. [s2] Nara National Research Institute for Cultural Properties, Mokkanko wooden tablet database, tablet 6BSRZZ00000018 (須々保利)gov