Skip to main content
Support

Browse by category

All categories
Fermentation Atlas

Tea leaf from Ōtoyo, Nagaoka District, Kōchi Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan

Goishi-cha碁石茶

Goishi-cha is a Japanese tea fermented twice. Summer tea leaves are steamed with their branches, piled under straw mats for about a week while moulds grow, then packed into tubs under stones for one to three weeks while lactic bacteria sour them. The pressed cake is cut into small squares and sun-dried, and the dark squares look like the black stones of the game of go. Made in 6 steps over 19 days – 33 days. The longest step, pack into tubs under stones (anaerobic fermentation), takes 10–20 days (Ukeda H. 2015). Aspergillus fumigatus, the main mould of the aerobic pile; it grows even at 53 °C and breaks down cellulose, damaging the leaf cell walls and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, the main lactic acid bacterium in the steaming liquid and the tub brine, which makes the tea sour do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step10–20 daysReported[ukeda2015][shimamura2017]Pack into tubs under stones (anaerobic fermentation)
Fully documentedTea leaf19 days – 33 daysMore tea leafMore from Japan

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedTraditional farm process with no fixed batch size; the leaf is the whole recipe.
Tea leaves cut with their branches · Yabukita and wild mountain tea grown without pesticides, cut from mid-June to mid-July[ukeda2015]
No salt and no starter · Moulds and lactic bacteria come from the leaves, mats and tubs[okada1996][ukeda2015]
Starter: spontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 19 days – 33 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play

What changes: Starting material: mature summer tea leaves cut with their branches

Step 1 of 6
Cut summer leaves with their branches
Time
Harvested from mid-June to mid-July
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Aspergillus fumigatus
L. plantarum

Output: tea leaves on branches.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Goishi-cha is one of only two Japanese teas fermented in two stages, first by mould in the open and then by lactic bacteria under weight. Ishizuchi-kurocha is the other; Awa-bancha skips the mould stage and Batabata-cha skips the lactic stage.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Ishizuchi-kurocha (Ehime)The other two-stage Japanese tea, made near Mt Ishizuchi.

Safety

Goishi-cha is dried to about 10 % moisture, which keeps it stable. Brew it with boiling water.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Goishi-cha is recorded in 1745 in the Toyonaga district of Nagaoka, so it is close to 300 years old or more. It was traded down to the Seto Inland Sea and the Shiwaku islands, where its sourness suited tea gruel made with slightly salty well water. Production fell until a single farm was left in the late 1970s; a producers' group formed in 2005 and a cooperative in 2010 to revive it. The method is thought to have come from Southeast Asian miang.

  1. [ukeda2015] Ukeda H. 2015, Nidankai hakkōcha goishi-cha no rekishi to mirai (History and future of the two-stage fermented tea goishi-cha), lecture record, Dentō Shokuhin no Kenkyū 42:27–paper
  2. [shimamura2017] Shimamura T., Kashiwagi T., Matsumoto Y. et al., Ukeda H. 2017, Elucidation of antioxidant compounds in goishi tea, Journal of the Japanese Society for Food Preservation Science 43(3):103–paper
  3. [okada1996] Okada S., Takahashi N., Ohara N., Uchimura T., Kozaki M. 1996, Microorganisms involved in the fermentation of goishi-cha (Japanese microbially fermented teas, 2nd report), Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogaku Kaishi 43(9):1019–1027, doi:10.3136/nskkk.43.1019 (abstract)paper
  4. [horie2019] Horie M. et al. 2019, Regional characteristics of Lactobacillus plantarum group strains isolated from two kinds of Japanese post-fermented teas, Ishizuchi-kurocha and Awa-bancha, Bioscience of Microbiota, Food and Health, doi:10.12938/bmfh.18-005paper
  5. [inoue2009] Inoue M., Sato K., Ohmori M., Kato M. 2009, Properties of microorganisms present in goishi-cha, Abstracts of the Japan Society of Home Economics 61:161 (abstract)paper
  6. [hirota2011] Hirota R., Ngatu N.R., Miyamura M., Nakamura H., Suganuma N. 2011, Goishi tea consumption inhibits airway hyperresponsiveness in BALB/c mice, BMC Immunology 12:45 (process summary)paper