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Tea leaf from Ōtoyo, Nagaoka District, Kōchi Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan
Goishi-cha碁石茶
Goishi-cha is a Japanese tea fermented twice. Summer tea leaves are steamed with their branches, piled under straw mats for about a week while moulds grow, then packed into tubs under stones for one to three weeks while lactic bacteria sour them. The pressed cake is cut into small squares and sun-dried, and the dark squares look like the black stones of the game of go. Made in 6 steps over 19 days – 33 days. The longest step, pack into tubs under stones (anaerobic fermentation), takes 10–20 days (Ukeda H. 2015). Aspergillus fumigatus, the main mould of the aerobic pile; it grows even at 53 °C and breaks down cellulose, damaging the leaf cell walls and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, the main lactic acid bacterium in the steaming liquid and the tub brine, which makes the tea sour do most of the fermenting.
No fixed amounts recordedTraditional farm process with no fixed batch size; the leaf is the whole recipe.
Tea leaves cut with their branches · Yabukita and wild mountain tea grown without pesticides, cut from mid-June to mid-July[ukeda2015]
No salt and no starter · Moulds and lactic bacteria come from the leaves, mats and tubs[okada1996][ukeda2015]
Starter: spontaneous
Total time across the recorded steps: 19 days – 33 days
Start
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What changes:Starting material: mature summer tea leaves cut with their branches
Step 1 of 6
Cut summer leaves with their branches
Time
Harvested from mid-June to mid-July
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Aspergillus fumigatus
L. plantarum
Output: tea leaves on branches.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
What makes this one different
Goishi-cha is one of only two Japanese teas fermented in two stages, first by mould in the open and then by lactic bacteria under weight. Ishizuchi-kurocha is the other; Awa-bancha skips the mould stage and Batabata-cha skips the lactic stage.
Goishi-cha is recorded in 1745 in the Toyonaga district of Nagaoka, so it is close to 300 years old or more. It was traded down to the Seto Inland Sea and the Shiwaku islands, where its sourness suited tea gruel made with slightly salty well water. Production fell until a single farm was left in the late 1970s; a producers' group formed in 2005 and a cooperative in 2010 to revive it. The method is thought to have come from Southeast Asian miang.