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Fermentation Atlas

Fruit from Greece, Turkey, eastern Mediterranean

Greek-style natural black olivesθρούμπες (dry-salted)

Ripe black olives go straight into strong salt brine with no lye. Yeasts and lactic bacteria ferment them for six months to a year while the bitter oleuropein slowly leaves the fruit, and they are packed in fresh brine, often with vinegar. Made in 6 steps over 6.1 months – 12 months. The longest step, ferment slowly for months, takes 6.1–12 months (Bonatsou S 2018). Salt is 8–10 % (International Olive Council). Yeasts Candida boidinii, Candida molendinolei and Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Yeasts of the genera Pichia, Ogataea and Saccharomyces do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step6.1–12 monthsReported[bonatsou2018][kazou2020]Ferment slowly for months
Salt8–10 %Reported[ioc-web][bonatsou2018]Put straight into brine, with no lye
AciditypH up to 4.3Set[ioc2004]Pack in fresh brine
Fully documentedFruit6.1 months – 12 monthsMore fruitMore from TurkeyMore from Greece

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceIndustrial and household practice with no fixed batch size; the IOC gives brine strengths, not amounts. One trial fermented 8 kg of Kalamata olives in 4 litres of 7 % brine (Bonatsou et al.).
Fully ripe black olives, picked by hand · Conservolea and Kalamata in Greece, Gemlik in Türkiye[ioc-web][bonatsou2018]
8–10 % saltBrine · Topped back up to 8–10 % as the salt falls during fermentation[ioc-web][bonatsou2018]
0.5 % (v/v), optionalVinegar at the start · Used by many Kalamata processors to acidify the brine at the onset[bonatsou2018]
About 25 % of the brine volume, optionalVinegar at packing[ioc-web]
A thin layer, optionalOlive oil on top of the pack[ioc-web]
Starterspontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 6.1 months – 12 months

Start
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What changes: Starting material: fully ripe black olives, picked by hand

Step 1 of 6
Pick fully ripe olives by hand
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Yeasts
Lactic acid bacteria
Candida molendinolei
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Saccharomyces industrial

Output: ripe olives, picked before they are over-ripe or touched by frost.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
reddish black to violet black

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

No lye is used, so the bitterness leaves only by slow diffusion and microbial enzymes in the brine. That is why it takes months, and why yeasts matter as much as lactic bacteria. Spanish-style green olives are lye-treated and lactic-fermented in weeks.

Related ferments

Variants

  • KalamataElongated Kalamata olives, often slit and packed with vinegar and oil.
  • Dry-salted wrinkled olives (throumba style)Over-ripe Megaritiki olives layered in baskets with dry salt equal to about 15 % of their weight; they wrinkle like raisins and taste salty, not bitter. The IOC standard asks at least 10 % salt for shrivelled olives.
  • Acidified start0.5 % vinegar or 0.1 % lactic acid added to the brine at the start; the final pH ends about the same.

Safety

Under the International Olive Council trade standard, natural olives kept by their own salt and acid need a brine of at least 6 % salt, pH 4.3 or lower and at least 0.3 % lactic acid. A pH below 4.6 holds back Clostridium botulinum in fermented vegetables (Snyder et al.). Enterobacteriaceae that linger after a slow start can cause gas pockets and splits in the fruit (Bonatsou et al.).

Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum, held back once the pH is below 4.6.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

  1. [ioc2004] International Olive Oil Council 2004, Trade standard applying to table olives, COI/OT/NC no. 1 (section 3.1.2.1, packing brine)spec
  2. [ioc-web] International Olive Council, Table olives (black olives in brine and in dry salt)gov
  3. [bonatsou2018] Bonatsou S., Paramithiotis S. and Panagou E.Z. 2018, Evolution of yeast consortia during the fermentation of Kalamata natural black olives upon two initial acidification treatments, Frontiers in Microbiology 8, 2673paper
  4. [kazou2020] Kazou M., Tzamourani A., Panagou E.Z. and Tsakalidou E. 2020, Unraveling the microbiota of natural black cv. Kalamata fermented olives through 16S and ITS metataxonomic analysis, Microorganisms 8(5), 672paper
  5. [snyder2020] Snyder A., Breidt F., Andress E.L. and Ingham B.H. 2020, Manufacture of traditionally fermented vegetable products, best practice for small businesses and retail food establishments, Food Protection Trends 40(4), 251–263paper