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Small fish or tiny shrimp are half-dried in the sun, pounded with a lot of salt, dried and pounded again, then packed into jars to ripen. Freshwater fish paste takes 30–40 % salt by weight; shrimp paste takes less and ripens for 3–4 months into a soft, slightly alkaline paste. Made in 6 steps over 17 days – 5 years. The longest step, ripen in the jar, takes 14 days – 5 years (Ishige N. and Ruddle K. 1987) and runs at 30 °C (Myint Myint Sein 1999). Salt is 30–40 % (Ishige N. and Ruddle K. 1987). Tetragenococcus muriaticus and Halanaerobium do most of the fermenting.
Amounts from a sourceFarm and village ngapi has no fixed recipe; makers salt to taste. The salt range is U Khin's 1948 figure for freshwater fish paste, quoted by Ishige and Ruddle 1987. Finished paste weighs 40–50 % of the fresh fish.
Small freshwater fish or small shrimp · Fish a few centimetres long are left whole; larger fish are split[ishige1987]
30–40 % of the fish weight
Salt · For freshwater fish paste; shrimp paste uses 20–25 %[ishige1987]
Starter
spontaneous
Total time across the recorded steps: 17 days – 5 years
Start
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What changes:Starting material: small paddy-field fish caught at the end of the rains
Step 1 of 6
Catch small fish as the paddy fields drain
Time
Late October to November, when one year's supply is made at once (Lower Myanmar farms)
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
T. muriaticus
Bacillus dominant
T. halophilus
Lactobacillus
Bacillus
Output: small fish from traps on paddy bunds and channels.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
What makes this one different
Ngapi is pounded and sun-dried between poundings before it goes into the jar, so it ends up a dense paste rather than a sauce. It is not soured; shrimp ngapi is slightly alkaline, about pH 8, so salt and drying, not acid, keep it from spoiling.
Yegyo ngapiFreshwater fish paste, often with roasted or cooked rice; see its own entry.
Damin ngapiMixed small paddy fish from bamboo traps; large makers drain the heap through bamboo tubes.
Ngapi gaungWhole gutted fish, salted and kept fairly dry; its drip becomes fish sauce.
Seinsa ngapiShrimp paste good enough to eat raw; famous from Myeik and Dawei.
Hmyin ngapiPaste of tiny shrimp caught in a fine net.
Rakhine ngapiMarine fish paste used for Rakhine soups; its method is not documented from a primary source.
Pè ngapi (Shan)No fish at all; boiled soybeans salted, pounded, dried and jarred the same way.
Safety
Ngapi is not acidic, so its safety depends on salt, drying and cooking. A study of Yangon market yegyo ngapi found DNA similar to Clostridium botulinum, and 2023 market samples held S. aureus, Salmonella and E. coli; parasites were possible in 10 of 41 pastes. Histamine was low (16 ppm or less). Cook ngapi before eating and keep jars closed.
Hazards the sources name: DNA sequences similar to Clostridium botulinum in market yegyo ngapi; Staphylococcus aureus in 12, Salmonella in 7 and Escherichia coli in 3 of 14 market fish pastes (2023); Possible parasites in 10 of 41 fish and shrimp pastes.
The name means pressed fish (nga, fish; pi, pressed). Inscription specialists consulted by Ishige and Ruddle found no early inscription naming ngapi makers, contrary to a common claim. Ngapi went from the Mon kingdom to the Nyaungyan court as trade goods (U Khin 1948).