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Fermented milk from Roman Empire
Columella's recipe sets the freshest ewe's milk in a new pot with a plugged hole near the base, with bundles of green herbs in it. Over ten days the milk sours and the whey is let out through the hole three times, then dried herbs, leek and salt go in and the pot is sealed until needed. The result is a thick, herbed, salted soured milk, close to a strained yoghurt or labneh. Made in 6 steps over 10 days. The longest step, let the whey out after five days, takes 5 days (Columella). Lactic acid bacteria of raw ewe's milk does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 5 daysReported[columella][cesila2025] | Let the whey out after five days |
|---|
| Ewe's milk, as fresh as possible · Enough to fill a new pot[columella] |
| Bundles of fresh oregano, mint, onion and coriander · Tied so the ties stick out of the milk; taken out after eight days[columella] |
| Dried thyme and dried cunila (a savory-like herb; marjoram in one translation) (a little)[columella][cesila2025] |
| Chopped leek (as much as seems right)[columella] |
| Ground salt (as much as is enough)[columella] |
| Starter: spontaneous (the milk's own lactic bacteria) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days
What changes: A hole is bored near the bottom of a new pot and stopped with a twig
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Oxygala is drained through a hole in the pot rather than hung in a cloth, and it is flavoured with herbs and leek and salted before it is sealed. Labneh is strained in a cloth.
Raw milk soured without a starter carries the usual raw-milk risks; the draining, salting and sealing were meant to make it keep. No ancient or modern data on its acidity exist.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Columella describes oxygala in Book XII of De re rustica (1st century AD), among the preserves the farm manager's wife (vilica) was expected to make (Cesila 2025).
