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Cheese from Spain, La Rioja
Goat milk, pasteurised except for some cured cheeses, gets lactic cultures and kid rennet and sets at 29–38 °C. The curd is cut to 4–5 mm grains and ladled into 'cilla' moulds shaped like the old woven-cane baskets, where it drains by its own weight with no press. After a short brine bath it is eaten fresh or ripened 15, 30 or 75 days at 9–15 °C, when a brownish-green mould rind forms. Made in 8 steps over 16 days. The longest step, ripen, takes at least 15 days (Gobierno de La Rioja / MAPA 2012) and runs at 9–15 °C (Gobierno de La Rioja / MAPA 2012). Added lactic acid bacteria cultures does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 15 daysSet[pliego][oj-2012] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 9–15 °CSet[pliego] | Ripen |
| Goat milk · At least 3.3 % protein and 4.0 % fat; pasteurised for fresco, tierno and semicurado; raw or pasteurised for curado[pliego][oj-2012] | |
| Up to 250 mg per kg of milk | Calcium chloride[pliego] |
| Lactic acid bacteria cultures[pliego] | |
| Natural kid rennet · Rennet of goat origin only[pliego][oj-2012] | |
| Salt · As a brine of 15 °Bé to saturation[pliego] | |
| Optional | Olive oil · Rubbed on cheeses ripened 30 days or more to limit mould on the rind[pliego][oj-2012] |
| Starter | added lactic acid bacteria cultures |
Total time across the recorded steps: 16 days
What changes: Starting material: filtered goat milk, kept cold
Output: filtered, chilled goat milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The curd is never pressed; it drains slowly by its own weight inside cilla moulds that print a basket weave on the rind. One designation covers four ages, from unripened fresco to curado of at least 75 days.
The specification follows the rule that raw milk may only be used for cheeses ripened at least 60 days, so only curado may be made from raw milk; the others use milk heated to 71.7 °C for 15 seconds. Fresco is kept at 4 °C or less.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Goatherds in the Sierra de Cameros made the cheese from surplus milk in woven-cane cillas. A verse by Gonzalo de Berceo mentions cheeses offered by the people of Cameros, and the cheese appears in Spanish cheese catalogues from 1973 and 1990. The 2008 national application allowed kid, lamb or industrial rennet; the registered 2012 specification keeps only natural goat rennet.
