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Cheese from Hungary
Cow milk is soured by lactic starter cultures, slowly over 12–20 hours or quickly over 4–6 hours after pre-ripening, sometimes with a little rennet. The curd is chopped into walnut-sized lumps, warmed, cooled and drained only by gravity, so it stays in loose, moist lumps that look like cauliflower. Made in 7 steps over 10 h – 28 h. The longest step, curdle by souring, takes 4–20 h (Commission Implementing Decision of 19 March…) and runs at 22–32 °C (Commission Implementing Decision of 19 March…). Mesophilic acidifying and aroma-producing lactic acid bacteria does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 4–20 hSet[tsg2019] | Curdle by souring |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 22–32 °CSet[tsg2019] | Curdle by souring |
| Cow milk, raw or pasteurised · Fresh, at most 7.2 °SH acidity[tsg2019] | |
| Cream · Added to reach the fat grade wanted[tsg2019] | |
| 0.5–1.5 % (slow method) or 4–5 % (fast method) | Lactic starter culture · Acidifying and aroma-producing lactic acid bacteria, 36–40 °SH[tsg2019] |
| Rennet (mixed-curdling method only)[tsg2019] | |
| Starter | lactic starter culture of acidifying and aroma-producing lactic acid bacteria; rennet only in mixed curdling |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 h – 28 h
What changes: In the fast method the cool milk sours a little before it goes into the vat
The slow method skips this step. Full milk or cream is then added if the fat level needs adjusting.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Rögös túró is the lumpy form of Hungarian túró. Its curd is soured by bacteria, chopped into large lumps and drained only by gravity, never pressed or kneaded, so the lumps stay whole and wet inside.
The specification cools the curd quickly to 18–22 °C to stop over-souring and the spread of contaminants, and keeps the finished túró below 6 °C.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification cites ethnographic sources on 18th–20th century curd cheese kept by grinding it into grain- or hazelnut-sized pieces, a 1925 dairy text noting that crumblier curd keeps fresh longer, and a 1960 description of curd lumps "reminiscent of cauliflower". In 1980 the dairy scientist Sándor Szakály wrote that the lumpy type made up 80 % of Hungarian curd cheese. The EU registered the name as a TSG in 2019.
