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Soy and legumes from China and Taiwan
Fresh tofu is soaked for minutes to hours in a brine of vegetables and other ingredients that has fermented for a year or more, and takes on its strong smell. It is then deep-fried, steamed or stewed and served with a chilli or garlic dip. Made in 5 steps over 12 months. The longest step, make and keep the brine, takes at least 12 months (Tian H 2023). Enterococcus, Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and Leuconostoc, reported as the core microbes of the brine does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 12 monthsReported[tian2023st][ich1522] | Make and keep the brine |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4 °CReported[tian2023st] | Keep raw stinky tofu cold |
| Fresh white tofu · In Changsha, blocks 5 × 5 cm and 1 cm thick, made from plump, moist northeastern soybeans[ich1522] |
| Fermented brine · Shanghai: amaranth and spices fermented for nearly a year. Changsha: fresh winter bamboo shoots, shiitake, perilla and Liuyang douchi simmered in winter water, with qu liquor added[tian2023st][ich1522] |
| Tea-seed oil, for frying · The Changsha choice[ich1522] |
| Chilli and garlic dip (to taste)[ich1522] |
| Starter: back-slop (old brine is kept and topped up); no defined culture |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months
What changes: Vegetables ferment for a year or more into a pungent brine
The Changsha brine is best made in winter. Output: stinky brine.
Microbes at work in this step
bacteria in the vegetable mix make proteases and lipases whose products give the smell
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Stinky tofu is plain tofu flavoured by soaking in an old fermented brine, so the tofu itself ferments only briefly. Furu and hairy tofu, by contrast, grow mould on the tofu.
Home-made traditional stinky tofu was the food behind 24 of the 80 foodborne botulism outbreaks recorded in China from 2004 to 2020, most of them in Xinjiang households, mainly through improper processing. Buy from controlled producers, keep raw stinky tofu cold, and cook it through.
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum in home-made traditional stinky tofu (24 of 80 botulism outbreaks in China, 2004–2020).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Changsha's Huogongdian stinky tofu was first made by a tofu-making Jiang family of Xiangyin in the Tongzhi era of the Qing dynasty; a Jiang descendant began selling it at Huogongdian in 1908.
