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Fermentation Atlas

Cheese from Benin

Wagashi (Peulh / Fulani cheese)gassirè

Fresh whole cow milk is warmed, curdled with a crushed-leaf extract of the Sodom apple (Calotropis procera), cooked near the boil and drained in small baskets. It is a boundary entry, set by a plant enzyme and heat, not by fermentation; yeasts and bacteria from the raw milk grow only while it is kept. It is often boiled again to keep, and may be dyed red. Made in 7 steps over 1.2 h – 1.5 h. The longest step, cook the curd, takes 26–35 min (Dossou W.A. et al. 2022) and runs at 90–92 °C (Dossou W.A. et al. 2022).

Key numbers
Main step26–35 minMeasured[dossou2022]Cook the curd
Temperature90–92 °CMeasured[dossou2022]Cook the curd
AciditypH 4.2–6.8Reported[tossou2025]Fill the moulds and drain

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceMonitored traditional batches in Benin (24 trials); producers use no fixed recipe. The cheese yield was 27–32 % of the milk weight.
Fresh whole cow milk · Filtered; not standardised[dossou2022]
7.9–19.0 g of milk per g of extract (two monitored methods)Calotropis procera leaf and stem extract · Washed, crushed and ground with a little heated milk or water, then filtered[dossou2022]
OptionalDye sorghum leaf sheaths, sorghum cobs or panicles, or teak leaves · Soaked or boiled to make the red dye[dossou2022][odouaro2024]
Starternone; a plant protease (calotropain) from Calotropis procera curdles the milk

Total time across the recorded steps: 1.2 h – 1.5 h

Start
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56–64 °C

What changes: Filtered milk warms in a pot over the fire

Step 1 of 7
Filter and heat the milk
Time
20–23 min
Measured
Temperature
56–64 °C
Measured
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: warm milk.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
liquid
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Wagashi is curdled by the Sodom apple's plant enzyme at near-boiling heat, not by rennet or souring, and is eaten fresh. Nigerian wara is the same kind of cheese.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Red wagashiDipped in dye from dye-sorghum leaf sheaths, sorghum cobs or teak leaves.
  • Sun-dried or smoked wagashiDried in the sun or smoked to keep longer; most common in Nikki.
  • Alternative coagulantsPapaya leaf, lemon and others have been tested; only Carica papaya matched Calotropis yields consistently.

Safety

Kept at ambient temperature without treatment, it lasts only about 2 to 3 days, which is why it is re-boiled, salted or dried. Market cheeses often carry high counts of E. coli and other bacteria. Calotropis procera contains cardiac glycosides; one study found none of its phytochemicals in the finished cheese or whey.

Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli, Salmonella, Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus cereus reported in market West African soft cheese; Listeria monocytogenes in raw milk used for it in Nigeria.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

  1. [dossou2022] Dossou W.A. et al. 2022, Processing and preservation methods of Wagashi Gassirè, a traditional cheese produced in Benin, Heliyon 8:e10605paper
  2. [tossou2025] Tossou M.W. et al. 2025, An overview of West African traditional soft cheese, processing, safety, and quality characteristics, Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safetypaper
  3. [sessou2019] Sessou P. et al. 2019, High-throughput Illumina MiSeq amplicon sequencing of yeast communities associated with indigenous dairy products from Republics of Benin and Niger, Frontiers in Microbiology 10:594paper
  4. [odouaro2024] Odouaro O.B.O. et al. 2024, Extraction of dye sorghum biocolorant for the dyeing of wagashi, a West African soft cheese, Heliyonpaper