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Cheese from Poland, Wielkopolskie voivodeship
Wielkopolski ser smażony is a spreadable cheese made by ripening crumbled sour-milk curd (twaróg) for two to three days until it turns glassy and pungent, then frying it with butter and salt. The skimmed milk is soured with lactic streptococci, and the whole cycle from milk to cup takes about a week. Melting salts are banned, so the curd has to ripen before it will melt. Made in 9 steps over 3.1 days – 4.1 days. The longest step, crumble and ripen on trays (gliwienie), takes 2–3 days (European Commission 2008) and runs at 16–27 °C (European Commission 2008). Lactic streptococci of the starter, which sour the milk into twaróg and Microbes that grow on the crumbled curd in air and break down its protein during gliwienie do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–3 daysSet[wss-spec2008] | Crumble and ripen on trays (gliwienie) |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 16–27 °CSet[wss-spec2008] | Crumble and ripen on trays (gliwienie) |
| Raw cow milk, skimmed to at most 1 % fat[wss-spec2008] | |
| 2 % of the milk | Starter (zakwas) of pasteurised milk grown with lactic streptococci · Grown 8–10 hours at 25 °C[wss-spec2008] |
| Butter (milk fat only) · Most often enough to give 15 % fat; the cheese must have at least 7.5 % fat[wss-spec-current] | |
| Salt[wss-spec2008] | |
| Caraway · Only for the caraway variant[wss-spec2008] | |
| Starter | zakwas, pasteurised milk grown 8–10 h at 25 °C with lactic streptococci |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3.1 days – 4.1 days
What changes: Cream is spun out of the raw milk, leaving skimmed milk
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Unlike acid-curd cheeses that are shaped and ripened whole, here the curd is crumbled, ripened for only two to three days, then melted with butter, so the ripening, not added salts, is what makes it melt. The specification bans melting salts and any fat other than butter.
The specification requires no coagulase-positive staphylococci in 0.1 g and no more than 100 moulds per gram. The milk is heated to 70–75 °C, and the curd is fried at 90 °C or more and packed hot.
Hazards the sources name: Coagulase-positive staphylococci (Staphylococcus aureus), which must be absent in 0.1 g.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification links the cheese to Olęder settlers who came to western Wielkopolska from the late 18th century. Frying ripened curd began as a way to make fresh twaróg keep longer. Cookbooks from Toruń (1885), Poznań (1899) and the Kucharz wielkopolski (1904) give recipes. It was registered as a PGI in 2009. The current single document no longer has the 2008 limit on sulphate-reducing spores.
