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Cheese from Greece, eastern Crete
Goat and/or sheep milk, raw or pasteurised, is salted, cooled below 25 °C and left untouched in covered tubs for 7 to 10 days while its own bacteria sour it. After the fat is skimmed it ripens about a month at 10–15 °C, is separated from its whey and is kept cold as a sour, white, spreadable cheese. Made in 8 steps over 3.2 months – 3.3 months. The longest step, keep cold, takes 2 months (Katsavochristou A. 2015) and runs at up to 4 °C (Katsavochristou A. 2015). Salt is up to 2 % (Katsavochristou A. 2015). Native lactic acid bacteria of the milk and its surroundings and Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus bulgaricus from yogurt cultures do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2 monthsSet[katsav2015] | Keep cold |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 4 °CSet[katsav2015][lapidakis2022] | Keep cold |
| Salt | up to 2 %Set[katsav2015][lapidakis2022] | Cool and salt the milk |
| Acidity | pH 4.1Reported[lapidakis2022] | Keep cold |
| Goat and/or sheep milk · From animals at least 10 days after giving birth; sheep milk may be part-skimmed to set the fat[katsav2015] | |
| Up to 2% of the milk weight | Salt[katsav2015][lapidakis2022] |
| Yogurt-type cultures (Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus) · Optional, mainly when the milk is pasteurised; the traditional method uses none[katsav2015][lapidakis2022] | |
| Natural rennet from lambs' stomachs (tirephtis) · Small amounts, mainly with pasteurised milk; 3–4 g per tonne in one industrial method[lapidakis2022] | |
| Starter | the milk's own lactic flora (traditional); yogurt cultures allowed, mainly with pasteurised milk |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3.2 months – 3.3 months
What changes: Starting material: goat and sheep milk from local Cretan flocks, kept cold
The mix can be all goat, goat with whole or part-skimmed sheep, or all part-skimmed sheep.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Xygalo is soured slowly and left completely unstirred in its tubs for over a month, and the fat is skimmed off, so it is leaner than other Greek cheese spreads. Pichtogalo Chanion, by contrast, sours for only a day and is sold fresh.
When raw milk is used, the specification holds the cheese about two more months in the cold before sale so that undesirable microbes can be checked for. It must stay below 4 °C. One study found E. coli peaking in the third week of storage and gone by the sixth.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli (peaked in week 3 of storage in one study, not found by week 6).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The name comes from the ancient Greek oxygala, "acid milk", a food known since Hellenistic and Roman times. It stayed a household product for centuries, made in summer when milk was too scarce for hard cheese. Dairies began selling it in the early 1990s, and it was registered as a PDO in 2011.
