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Cheese from France, the high Jura mountains
Raw milk from Montbéliarde or French Simmental cows is set with calf rennet at no more than 30 °C. The curd is moulded by hand in a cloth-lined mould, not pressed, and dry-salted in a tub for at least three days. Pierced between days 7 and 15 to let air in for the blue mould, it ripens at least 21 days on spruce boards. Made in 7 steps over 33 days – 41 days. The longest step, ripen on spruce boards, takes at least 21 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2014) and runs at 6–14 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2014). Salt is at least 0.8 % (Ministère de l'agriculture 2014). Selected lactic cultures and the raw-milk flora, including heterofermentative bacteria that open small holes in the paste and Penicillium roqueforti and Penicillium glaucum, the blue-green veins do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 21 daysSet[cdc-gex2014] | Ripen on spruce boards |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–14 °CSet[cdc-gex2014] | Ripen on spruce boards |
| Salt | at least 0.8 %Set[cdc-gex2014] | Dry-salt in tubs |
| Raw cow milk · Montbéliarde or French Simmental cows; at most two consecutive milkings within 24 h; never heated above 40 °C[cdc-gex2014] |
| Calf rennet · Only rennet from calf stomachs is allowed[cdc-gex2014] |
| Selected lactic cultures[cdc-gex2014] |
| Penicillium glaucum and Penicillium roqueforti[cdc-gex2014] |
| Coarse dry salt · Rubbed on daily for at least two days in salting tubs[cdc-gex2014] |
| Ripening cultures (cellar only)[cdc-gex2014] |
| Starter: selected lactic cultures plus the native milk flora; Penicillium added to the milk or curd |
Total time across the recorded steps: 33 days – 41 days
What changes: Starting material: raw milk from the evening and morning milkings
Milk cooled only to 10–18 °C must be used by noon or midnight of the next day.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Bleu de Gex is a large unpressed blue made from mountain milk. With no press, the whey is drawn out by days of dry salting in tubs, which also round its edges. Its veins are pale and even, and it can be sold after three weeks despite its size.
This is a raw-milk blue cheese. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than hard cooked ones, because of Listeria, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin E. coli. Cooking the cheese removes the risk.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli (risks ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Administrative records show blue cheese made in Jura mountain chalets by the late 18th century, sold as Gex, Septmoncel or blue cheese of the Haut-Jura. Village fruitières took it up beside Comté and Morbier. A 1928 US bulletin notes that the mould was not added with mouldy bread as for Roquefort and that wheels then weighed 14–15 pounds. A Nantua court recognised the appellation on 24 July 1935.
