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Cheese from Italy, Puglia
A large hard cheese of whole raw ewe milk, set with animal rennet at 38–45 °C in 15–25 minutes. The curd is pressed into rush baskets, which mark the rind, and is salted again and again for 30–60 days while it stays in the basket. It then ripens 2–10 months in cool, lightly aired rooms, with the rind rubbed with olive oil. Made in 7 steps over 3 months – 12 months. The longest step, ripen in cool rooms, takes 2–10 months (Presidential Decree of 10 September 1985). Lactococcus (87.2 % of bacteria at 90 days), with Lactobacillus (mainly L. plantarum and L. sakei) and Leuconostoc and Enterococcus (most raw-milk cheese isolates), with Lactobacillus brevis, L. plantarum and Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–10 monthsSet[pugliese-dpr1985] | Ripen in cool rooms |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 38–45 °CSet[pugliese-dpr1985][pugliese-sum] | Set with animal rennet |
| Whole ewe milk · From one or two daily milkings; flocks fed mainly on local pasture and hay[pugliese-dpr1985] |
| Animal rennet · Only animal rennet; the EU summary names lamb rennet[pugliese-dpr1985][pugliese-sum] |
| Salt · Dry or in brine; coarse sea salt from Margherita di Savoia is traditional[pugliese-dpr1985][onaf-pugliese] |
| Olive oil, sometimes mixed with wine vinegar · For the rind[pugliese-dpr1985] |
| Starter: none; raw-milk flora |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 months – 12 months
What changes: Starting material: whole raw ewe milk from one or two milkings
Output: whole raw ewe milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Made only of ewe milk and much larger (7–14 kg) than Canestrato di Moliterno. The salting runs for weeks while each cheese stays in its rush basket.
Made only from raw ewe milk. A study of thermised milk found that heating lowered coliforms and enterococci but cost the cheese some of its typical flavour.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The name comes from the woven baskets (canestri) used to shape it. It was once made only from December to May, after the flocks came down from the Abruzzo mountains to winter on the Tavoliere plain. Italy protected the name in 1985.
