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Cheese from Italy, Campania
Raw goat milk is set with kid rennet, broken to chickpea size and drained in small baskets. Wheels kept for ageing dry 10–20 days on wooden boards, are washed with olive oil and vinegar, coated with wild thyme and aged 2–3 months in closed glass or clay jars. The wash is repeated a couple of times; it keeps moulds and pests away. Made in 7 steps over 2.3 months – 3.7 months. The longest step, age in closed jars, takes 2–3 months (ONAF technical sheet). Lactic acid bacteria of the raw goat milk does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–3 monthsReported[onaf-sheet][pat-sheet] | Age in closed jars |
|---|
| Raw whole goat milk · From one milking; filtered through hemp cloth within a few hours[onaf-sheet][pat-sheet] |
| Kid rennet paste · Made by shepherds from the dried stomachs of slaughtered kids[onaf-sheet] |
| Kitchen salt · Amount varies with the room temperature[onaf-sheet] |
| Olive oil and local wine vinegar · Emulsion for the wash (concia)[onaf-sheet][pat-sheet] |
| Wild thyme (timo serpillo), sometimes ground hot chilli · Finely chopped and pressed onto the rind[onaf-sheet][pat-sheet] |
| Starter: none added; raw milk and kid rennet paste |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.3 months – 3.7 months
What changes: Raw goat milk, filtered through hemp cloth, is warmed and set with kid rennet
The milk is warmed to setting temperature; the sheets give no figure. Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The goat cheese is cured on the outside with oil, vinegar and wild thyme and aged in sealed jars. Conciato di San Vittore, from nearby southern Lazio, is a ewe-milk cheese rubbed with pepper and about 15 herbs and spices.
The regional sheet names raw milk, wooden tools and rush baskets as the main hygiene risks, with Staphylococcus aureus among raw-milk problems. It advises checking the milk against the legal limits (or thermising or pasteurising it), good hygiene, and discarding cheeses that look abnormal.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus (named by the regional sheet as a raw-milk risk).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Goat herding was common on the upper slopes; until after the Second World War Formicola alone had several thousand goats, now a few dozen herds. Surplus fresh cheese was cured and jarred. The method is said to go back to the Samnites (6th–5th century BC).
