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Fermentation Atlas

Cheese from France, Burgundy

Époisses PDOÉpoisses

Whole cow milk sets slowly, mostly by lactic souring with a little rennet, for more than 16 hours. The curd is cut coarsely, drained in moulds without pressing and dry-salted. For at least four weeks the cheese is washed one to three times a week, first with water and then with stronger and stronger Marc de Bourgogne, until the rind is orange to brick red. Made in 5 steps over 29 days. The longest step, wash with water, then with Marc de Bourgogne, takes at least 28 days (INAO 2006). Lactic acid bacteria that set the curd and Debaryomyces hansenii and Geotrichum candidum do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 28 daysSet[eambrosia-59562]Wash with water, then with Marc de Bourgogne
Temperature4 °CMeasured[irlinger2021]Keep cold after ripening
AciditypH up to 4.5Set[eambrosia-59562]Drain without pressing and dry-salt

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe specification fixes the ingredients and steps, not amounts. Colouring agents are banned.
Whole cow milk · Brune, Montbéliarde or French Simmental cows; used the day it is collected, or within 24 h on farms and with daily collection[eambrosia-59562]
Lactic cultures · Harmless bacteria, yeasts and moulds are the only cultures allowed[eambrosia-59562]
Rennet · The only coagulant; the set is mostly lactic[eambrosia-59562]
Dry salt[eambrosia-59562]
Marc de Bourgogne · Added to the washing water in rising strength[eambrosia-59562]
Starter: lactic cultures; the set is mostly lactic, with rennet only as a helper

Total time across the recorded steps: 29 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
Milk proteinGel (curd)shapes, not to countLactic acid bacteria

What changes: Lactic bacteria sour whole milk slowly, and it sets into a fragile curd overnight

Step 1 of 5
Set the milk slowly by lactic souring
Time
at least 16 h
Set
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts
Geotrichum candidum

Output: lactic curd.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
fragile, acid curd
Colour
white

Microbes at work in this step

lactic bacteria sour the milk; a little rennet helps it set

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Époisses is set mainly by slow lactic souring, not by rennet, so its curd is fragile and is drained without pressing. Its rind is washed with Marc de Bourgogne in rising strength. Most washed-rind cheeses, such as Maroilles, are rennet-set and washed with brine alone.

Milk
Whole milk only from Brune, Montbéliarde or French Simmental cows, made into cheese the day it is collected
Setting
Lactic-dominant set of more than 16 h; pH below 4.5 at unmoulding; drained without pressing and dry-salted
Washing
Washed 1–3 times a week with water, then water with more and more Marc de Bourgogne, for at least 4 weeks
Ripening
At least 4 weeks
Size
250–350 g (95–115 mm across) or 700–1100 g (165–190 mm); fat in dry matter at least 50%

Related ferments

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Legend credits Cistercian monks at Époisses in the early 16th century; farm women carried the craft on. Brillat-Savarin called it the king of cheeses in 1825. It became an appellation by decree on 14 May 1991.

  1. [eambrosia-59562] INAO, Cahier des charges AOP Époisses (2006 version), eAmbrosia attachment 59562spec
  2. [irlinger2021] Irlinger F., Monnet C. 2021, Temporal differences in microbial composition of Époisses cheese rinds during ripening and storage, Journal of Dairy Science 104:7500–7508, doi:10.3168/jds.2021-20123paper