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Cheese from France
A soft or semi-soft curd is drained, salted and kept in a warm, very humid cellar. Yeasts first eat the lactic acid on the surface; then the rind is washed and rubbed again and again, and salt-loving bacteria turn it sticky and orange and give the cheese its strong smell. Made in 6 steps over 15 days. The longest step, finish ripening and wrap, takes at least 14 days (INAO 2017). Salt is 19–21 % (Ritschard J.S 2024). Lactic starter bacteria and Yeasts Debaryomyces hansenii and Geotrichum candidum do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 14 daysSet[munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] | Finish ripening and wrap |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 38 °CSet[munster-cdc][ritschard2024] | Set the milk |
| Salt | 19–21 %Reported[ritschard2024][epoisses-cdc] | Salt |
| Acidity | pH 5.5Measured[bittante2022] | Finish ripening and wrap |
| Cow milk · Munster PDO: raw, or pasteurised at no more than 73 °C for 40 s; farm Munster raw only[munster-cdc] | |
| Lactic starter · Sours the curd before the rind flora take over[ritschard2024][munster-cdc] | |
| Calf rennet[munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] | |
| Salt[munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] | |
| Surface cultures · Debaryomyces hansenii, Geotrichum candidum, Brevibacterium, Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus equorum; or brine from older cheeses[ritschard2024][munster-cdc] | |
| Washing liquid · Salted or plain water; for Époisses, water with more and more Marc de Bourgogne[munster-cdc][epoisses-cdc] | |
| 0.5–1.5 % of curd weight | Caraway seed (optional) · Munster au cumin[munster-cdc] |
| Starter | mesophilic lactic starter, then surface yeasts and smear bacteria from cultures or from the cellar |
Total time across the recorded steps: 15 days
What changes: Starter and rennet go into the milk and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the starter sours the milk; Époisses is set mainly by acid
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The rind is washed and rubbed over and over in a very humid cellar, so a bacterial smear, not a mould, ripens the cheese. Bloomy-rind cheeses grow a dry white mould felt instead.
The smear is moist, salty and close to neutral, and Listeria can grow on it. Washing young cheeses with brine from old ones ("old-young" smearing) can carry Listeria between batches, so food safety authorities discourage it and makers now use defined surface cultures. The UK NHS advises eating unpasteurised soft cheeses only when cooked until steaming hot.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, which can grow on the moist smear and spread through "old-young" smearing.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Linked to medieval monasteries; the Munster valley tradition is commonly dated to the 7th century.
