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Cheese from France, Normandy, Pays d'Auge
Partly skimmed Normande cow milk is ripened and set with rennet, cut into medium grains and moulded within two hours. The cheeses drain for a day, are salted, and ripen at least three or five weeks while they are washed with salt water, sometimes coloured with annatto. Three to five bands of sedge or paper go round each cheese. Made in 9 steps over 26 days – 27 days. The longest step, finish ripening, takes at least 21 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2014) and runs at 6–9 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2014). Lactic acid bacteria from added cultures, which acidify the curd and Geotrichum candidum, the dominant yeast on the rind; Debaryomyces hansenii co-dominates when added as a culture do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 21 daysSet[cdc-liva2014] | Finish ripening |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–9 °CSet[cdc-liva2014] | Finish ripening |
| Cow milk, partly skimmed · Normande cows only since May 2017; fat set at 26–30 g per litre; from at most the last four milkings[cdc-liva2014] | |
| Lactic cultures · Harmless bacteria, yeasts and moulds are the only cultures allowed[cdc-liva2014] | |
| At most 33 ml per 100 L of milk | Rennet[cdc-liva2014] |
| Salt · Dry salt or brine[cdc-liva2014] | |
| Under 2% in the washing water | Annatto (rocou) and ripening cultures · Optional, added to the salt-water wash[cdc-liva2014] |
| 3 to 5 turns | Strips of sedge or cattail (laîches), or paper · Plant strips are required on the 4/4 size; the bands were once of willow wood[cdc-liva2014][inao-liva][eamb-liva] |
| Starter | added lactic cultures; yeast and smear cultures may be added to the wash |
Total time across the recorded steps: 26 days – 27 days
What changes: Part of the cream is taken off, leaving milk with 26–30 g of fat per litre
The milk may be thermised (40–72 °C) or pasteurised (at least 72 °C for 15 s). Output: partly skimmed, ripened milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Livarot is made from partly skimmed milk and is banded with three to five strips of sedge or paper, which give it the nickname "the Colonel". Pont-l'Évêque, from the same Pays d'Auge, is a square, whole-milk washed-rind cheese with no bands.
When made from raw milk, ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat it, because of Listeria, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin E. coli. Thermised or pasteurised versions are also allowed under the rules.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli when the milk is raw (risks ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Its first written mentions date from the 17th century; Thomas Corneille praised it in his dictionary of 1708. Railways carried it to the cities in the 19th century, when it was the most eaten cheese of Normandy. The bands were once of willow wood and later of reeds or paper; a 1928 US bulletin describes bands of Typha leaves and annatto colouring. Makers formed a syndicate in April 1970 and won the appellation by decree of 17 December 1975.
