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Cheese from Italy, Romagna and Marche
Small ewe, cow or mixed-milk cheeses are made, pre-ripened in a room, then put into cotton sacks and sealed for 80–100 days in pits dug into sandstone. The pits are first cleaned with burning straw and lined with straw on a wooden floor. In the airless pit the cheeses lose their rind, sweat fat and take on a smell of undergrowth and truffle. Made in 5 steps over 5 months – 5.6 months. The longest step, ripen in the sealed pit, takes 2.6–3.3 months (European Commission 2009) and runs at 10–15 °C (Giacometti F. et al. 2020). Mesophilic lactic acid bacteria and Starter of Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactococcus lactis and Leuconostoc mesenteroides do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2.6–3.3 monthsSet[fossa-oj-2009] | Ripen in the sealed pit |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–15 °CMeasured[giacometti2020] | Ripen in the sealed pit |
| Acidity | pH 5.1Measured[giacometti2020] | Ripen in the sealed pit |
| Whole ewe milk, whole cow milk, or a mix · Misto has at most 80 % cow milk and at least 20 % ewe milk; raw milk, or pasteurised[fossa-oj-2009] | |
| 20 g per 50 L of milk (one pilot make) | Rennet[giacometti2020] |
| Mesophilic and thermophilic starter culture · Used in one pilot make; additives are banned[giacometti2020][fossa-oj-2009] | |
| Dry salt · Spread over the cheeses in one pilot make[giacometti2020] | |
| Wheat straw, reeds, cotton sacks and untreated wooden boards · To clean and line the pit and wrap the cheeses[fossa-oj-2009] | |
| Starter | commercial starter in one pilot make; the pit adds yeasts |
Total time across the recorded steps: 5 months – 5.6 months
What changes: Rennet and starter set the milk, and the cut curd goes into round moulds
Output: young cheeses of about 800 g.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Most cheeses ripen in open air. Fossa cheese finishes sealed in a straw-lined sandstone pit with no air for 80–100 days, so the rind dissolves into the paste and fat drains away.
Raw or pasteurised milk is allowed. In a challenge test, the Listeria surrogate held steady in the ripening room but fell sharply in the pit; the authors advise keeping cheeses in the pit as close to 100 days as possible. Finished cheese had pH 5.06 and water activity 0.916.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes (its surrogate, L. innocua, fell sharply during pit ripening in a challenge test).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification dates the custom to the Middle Ages and cites 14th-century records of the Malatesta family, who ruled the area. Pits cut into sandstone stored grain and food and hid cheese from raiding armies, sieges, famine and harsh tenancy terms.
