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Fish and seafood from Korea
Whole skate is laid in a straw-lined jar with no salt and left for about ten days to a month. Bacteria break down the urea in the skate's flesh into ammonia, so the fish turns alkaline and takes on a sharp ammonia sting instead of going sour. It is eaten raw, often as samhap with boiled pork and aged kimchi. Made in 4 steps over 10 days – 30 days. The longest step, ripen until the ammonia sting develops, takes 10–30 days (Shinan County Office) and runs at 4–20 °C (Choi M.R 2003). Psychrobacter, Pseudomonas and Oblitimonas and Pseudomonadales, Alteromonadales and Burkholderiales do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 10–30 daysReported[shinan] | Ripen until the ammonia sting develops |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4–20 °CMeasured[choi2003] | Ripen until the ammonia sting develops |
| Skate, whole or in pieces · Like sharks and rays, skate holds urea and TMAO in its flesh[shinan][piao2022] |
| Rice straw · Lines the jar[shinan] |
| No salt · Studies ferment the flesh with no salt or other additives[piao2022] |
| Starter: spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 30 days
What changes: Starting material: whole skate, with no salt added
Heuksando skate was carried for days to Naju, and it ripened on the way. Output: whole skate, unsalted.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Most fish ferments are salted and go sour. Hongeo gets no salt at all and goes alkaline, because its own urea turns into ammonia. That makes it a close cousin of Icelandic hákarl and kæst skata rather than of Korean jeotgal.
Hongeo has no salt and no acid to protect it; its pH climbs instead (8.9 by day 4 at 20 °C in one study). The FDA's pathogen table puts the top pH for growth of Clostridium botulinum at 9 and of Staphylococcus aureus at 10, so the alkali alone is not a full barrier. Clostridium was found in commercial hongeo, though the species was not tested. Ripening cold slows the change; at 4 °C the pH and ammonia hardly rose.
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium (genus found in all five commercial samples; species and toxins not tested).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Skate caught off Heuksando was carried for days to Naju and ripened on the way, which is the origin story told by Shinan county. Jeong Yak-jeon's fish guide Jasan-eobo (1814) notes that people near Naju liked to eat it.
