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Meat from Canadian Arctic
Igunaq is walrus or seal meat and fat aged without salt or starter, sewn into the animal's own skin or cached under rocks and gravel, until the fat turns to oil and the meat softens. It is eaten raw. The process is decomposition more than acid fermentation, so cold ageing is what keeps it safe from type E botulism. Made in 4 steps over 4.5 months – 5.4 months. The longest step, freeze for winter, takes at least 4 months (Food Safety Network for the National Collabor…). Clostridium does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 4 monthsReported[ncceh2009] | Freeze for winter |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 2–23 °CMeasured[leclair2008] | Cache under rocks and gravel to age |
| Acidity | pH 5.5Measured[leclair2008] | Cache under rocks and gravel to age |
| Walrus or seal meat and fat · Meat and fat pieces with nothing else added[leclair2008][ncceh2009] |
| Skin pouch (puurtaq) from the same animal, or a modern container · Plastic bags, hard plastic containers, wooden boxes and barrels are also used[leclair2008] |
| No salt · Nothing is added to the meat[leclair2008] |
| Starter: spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4.5 months – 5.4 months
What changes: Starting material: walrus or seal meat and fat, butchered on the shore
Output: meat and fat pieces.
Microbes at work in this step
spores of C. botulinum type E can reach the meat from coastal rocks, tidal water and shoreline soil during butchering
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Igunaq has no salt, sugar or starter, and its pH rises toward neutral instead of falling. Unlike acid-fermented sausages, nothing in the food itself stops C. botulinum type E; only low temperature does.
Aged marine mammal meat gave Nunavik an average of more than 3 reported type E botulism cases per 10,000 people over 1996–2004. In a thesis challenge study, no seal igunaq aged at 4 °C formed toxin; at 10 and 20 °C toxin did form, and seal skin pouches and plastic containers made no difference to how fast. The study recommends keeping the meat at 4 °C or lower for the whole ageing period. A Canadian public health review advises against sealed plastic containers and warm above-ground ageing. Ageing cannot be relied on to make Trichinella safe. Larvae in field igunaq aged 4–5 and 10 months were no longer infective in one study, but the same review cites a controlled study in which infective larvae survived in igunaq for at least five months.
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum type E (spores on coastal rocks, seal skin and gut contents); Trichinella nativa larvae in walrus meat (may stay infective in igunaq).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Igunaq means "aged meat" in Inuktitut. In North Baffin it was made from June because of lower temperatures, and in South Baffin from mid-August. Plastic bags and pails now often replace the skin pouch.
