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Fermentation Atlas

Other from Norway, Sweden, Finland

Lutefisk (boundary: alkali, not microbial)lutefisk

Lutefisk is not a ferment. Air-dried stockfish is soaked in water for about a week, then in lye for a few days until it swells to pH 11–12, then soaked in clean water again to wash the lye out. It is in the atlas as a contrast to fish that bacteria change, such as rakfisk. Made in 4 steps over 7 days – 11 days. The longest step, soak the stockfish in cold water, takes 5–7 days (Hassoun A 2020).

Key numbers
Main step5–7 daysReported[hassoun2020][wp]Soak the stockfish in cold water
Temperature200 °CReported[hassoun2020]Salt and cook
AciditypH 9.8–10.9Measured[hassoun2020]Salt and cook

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedNo fixed batch size. Sources give the soaking times but no lye strength or fish-to-water ratio, and brands differ in both.
Stockfish · Air-dried cod, or other whitefish[hassoun2020][snl-lutefisk]
Lye · Caustic soda today; the lye was first made from birch ash[hassoun2020][snl-lutefisk]
Cold water · For the soaks before and after the lye[hassoun2020]
Starter: none; the change is chemical, not microbial

Total time across the recorded steps: 7 days – 11 days

Start
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Close-up: water moving into a piece

What changes: Hard, dry stockfish soaks in cold water for about a week and takes up water

Step 1 of 4
Soak the stockfish in cold water
Time
5–7 days
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: rehydrated fish.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
dry, hard fish takes up water
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Lutefisk is a boundary entry. No microbe does the work; lye breaks down and swells the fish protein. Rakfisk and surströmming, by contrast, are changed by bacteria.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Strongly lyed fishSofter and more jelly-like; usually steamed in its own liquid in the oven.
  • Lightly lyed fishFirmer; holds together when poached in water.

Safety

Food-grade lye is caustic. The long soak in clean water after the lye is what makes the fish edible, and finished lutefisk is still strongly alkaline, at about pH 10.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Lutefisk is recorded from the 16th century, first by the Nordic priest and writer Olaus Magnus. Where the lye came from is debated; one story tells of a stockfish rack of birch catching fire. The lye was first made from birch ash.

  1. [hassoun2020] Hassoun A., Heia K., Lindberg S.K., Nilsen H. 2020, Performance of fluorescence and diffuse reflectance hyperspectral imaging for characterization of lutefisk, a traditional Norwegian fish dish, Molecules 25:1191, doi:10.3390/molecules25051191paper
  2. [snl-lutefisk] Store norske leksikon, Lutefiskbook
  3. [wp] Wikipedia, Lutefisk (first water soak)wiki