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Soy and legumes from Japan — Nagano
Steamed rice is grown into koji, then mixed with crushed cooked soybeans, salt and water and left in tanks while koji enzymes, salt-tolerant yeast and lactic bacteria work on it. Shinshu miso is the salty, light-yellow type, ripened for only 2–3 months. Rice miso is about 80 % of the miso Japan makes, and Nagano makes the largest share of it. Made in 6 steps over 2.1 months – 3.1 months. The longest step, ferment and ripen, takes 2–3 months (Itō M) and runs at 25–30 °C (Kusumoto K-I 2021). Salt is 11–13 % (Itō M). Aspergillus oryzae and Zygosaccharomyces rouxii do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–3 monthsSet[aichi-itc] | Ferment and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25–30 °CReported[kusumoto2021] | Ferment and ripen |
| Salt | 11–13 %Set[aichi-itc][kitagawa2019] | Crush the beans and mix with koji, salt and water (shikomi) |
| Acidity | pH 5Reported[kitagawa2019][kusumoto2021] | Ferment and ripen |
| 1.3 kg (1 shō) | Soybeans · Soaked 12–15 h in 2.5 times as much water, then boiled in the soaking water[kyoto-tango] |
| 1.65 kg | Rice koji · Made from 1 shō of rice[kyoto-tango] |
| 660 g | Salt · Two handfuls kept back to scatter on the surface; gives about 11 % salt in the miso[kyoto-tango] |
| As needed | Bean cooking water · Added only if the mix is crumbly[kyoto-tango] |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter (tane-koji: Aspergillus oryzae); salt-tolerant yeast and lactic bacteria added at packing |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.1 months – 3.1 months
What changes: Steam cooks the rice through so the koji mould can grow into each grain
Steaming must gelatinise the starch fully, or koji hyphae cannot grow into the grain. Output: steamed rice.
Microbes at work in this step
steam kills what is on the grain
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Shinshu miso uses little koji for a rice miso. The koji rice weighs 0.5–1.0 times the soybeans, against 1.5–3 times in sweet white miso, and the salt is 11–13 %. A short, warm ripening keeps it pale. Sendai miso has the same koji ratio and salt but ripens 3–12 months and turns red.
Salty miso has about 12 % salt, which keeps unwanted microbes down during long ripening. Miso and koji are not acid foods, so pH is not their safety hurdle; clean raw materials and hygiene matter most. Koji strains used in Japan do not make aflatoxin.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Shurtleff and Aoyagi record that the warlord Takeda Shingen had miso made in Shinshu to feed his troops. Today Nagano Prefecture ships more miso than any other prefecture.
