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Starters and koji from Japan
Polished rice is steeped, steamed and dusted with Aspergillus oryzae spores, then tended for about two days in a warm koji room. The mould grows into the grains and fills them with enzymes that later turn the rice starch into sugar for the sake yeast. Each brewery makes its own koji. Made in 6 steps over 2.6 days – 3 days. The longest step, take out and cool (dekoji), takes 44 h – 2 days (Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and…). Aspergillus oryzae does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 44 h – 2 daysReported[nrib2011] | Take out and cool (dekoji) |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30–36 °CReported[snsr] | Carry into the koji room, add spores and knead (hikikomi, tanekiri, tokomomi) |
| 15–25 % of the polished rice in a sake batch | Polished rice for koji (kōji-mai) · At least 15 % for special-designation sake[nrib2011] |
| Tane-koji (Aspergillus oryzae spores) · Bought from spore makers, who grow it on unpolished rice[nrib2011] | |
| 30 % of the rice weight | Water taken up in the steep[nrib2011] |
| Starter | other: tane-koji (pure Aspergillus oryzae spores, sold by tane-koji makers) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.6 days – 3 days
What changes: Milling grinds away the outer layers of each rice grain
Output: polished rice.
Microbes at work in this step
none
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sake koji is grown for amylase, on well-polished rice and with few spores; ginjo sake needs the spotty tsukihaze style. Miso and shoyu koji favour protease and are grown on rice, barley, soybeans or wheat.
Koji moulds are related to Aspergillus flavus, which makes aflatoxin, but studies show the strains used in Japan make no mycotoxins and lack the genes needed. Keeping the koji cool after the spores germinate holds back Bacillus contamination.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Provincial records (fudoki) of the eighth century mention sake made with mould, and the tenth-century Engishiki records how sake was made at court.
