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Fermentation Atlas

Starters and koji

Koji, nuruk, qu, ragi and the other mould and yeast starters that begin many ferments.

46 entries listed here.

Compare them

FermentRegionMain stepTemperatureSaltpH
Ersho (injera starter liquid)Ethiopia, Eritrea24 h – 3 days25 °C3.5–4
Marcha (murcha)Sikkim and Darjeeling2–5 days4.9–5.7
Meju (fermented soybean brick)Korea30 days – 2 months0–10 °C27.5 %6.9
Nuruk (wheat nuruk, Korean cake starter)Korea30 days35–45 °C
Rice koji for sake (yellow koji, kome-koji)Japan44 h – 2 days
Linfan jiumu (Shaoxing 'shower-rice' yeast mother)Shaoxing, Zhejiang36 h – 2 days
Phab (phap)Tibet, Bhutan, Ladakh5–7 days
Black koji (kuro-koji)Okinawa40–45 h35–40 °C3
Bubod (binubudan starter)Philippines
Cocklebur-water divine qu (又作神麴方) and its wine (神麴酒方, 清麴法)Northern China20 days
Dombea / medombae (Cambodian dried starter)Cambodia
EmaoAssam
Fuqu (bran qu, pure-culture bran koji)China24 h – 2 days30–40 °C
Goori (고리, 古里), wheat-based vinegar starterKorea
HameiManipur, India2–5 days
Hedong divine qu (河東神麴方) and its millet wineHedong15 days11 °C
High-temperature daqu (gaowen daqu, for sauce-aroma baijiu)Guizhouat least 3 months
Hongqu (red yeast rice, red qu)Fujian3–6 days30–40 °C
Huangyi and huangzheng ("yellow coat" and "yellow steamed" mould starters)Northern China7 days
Huangzheng (黃蒸), yellow steamed-flour starterNorthern China7 days
Ikpiru / iku-iru (Hibiscus-seed starter for iru, Benin)Benin
Jiaozi (dried dough-crumb starter for mantou)Northern China3.7–5.5
Loog-pang (Thai starter balls)Thailand, Laos
Low-temperature daqu (diwen daqu, for light-aroma baijiu)Shanxi
Mana and manapuNepal
Medium-temperature daqu (zhongwen daqu, for strong-aroma baijiu)Sichuan25–30 days50–60 °C
Men (bánh men)Vietnam
Myanmar rice-wine starter balls (Burmese name unverified)Myanmar7 days
Ragi (ragi tape, Indonesian/Malay starter cake)Indonesia, Malaysia, Brunei2–3 days
Ritual "divine" wheat qu (造神麴, three-wheat method with qu kings)Northern China7 days
Roman barley-cake leaven (any season)Roman Italy
Roman millet-and-must leaven (Pliny)Roman Italy
Roman wheat-bran and white-must leaven cakes (Pliny's 'best' leaven)Roman Italy3 days
Sasad (Sabah ragi)Sabah, Malaysian Borneo
Shaoxing jiuyao (white medicine, small qu)Shaoxing, Zhejiangat least 3 days
Shaoxing wheat qu (traditional maiqu) and pure-culture wheat quShaoxing, Zhejiang
Sorghum/millet malt as "starter" (Africa)Sub-Saharan Africa3–6 days25–30 °C
Tane-koji (koji spores, moyashi)Japan
ThiatMeghalaya, India
Tou-huang (soy fermentation pellicle, historical China)China
West-wing divine qu and its millet wine (又神麴法 + 造酒法)Northern China
White koji (shiro-koji)Kagoshima, Kyushu, Japan
Women's qu (女麴), rice-cake mould starterNorthern China21 days
Xaj-pitha (Ahom rice wine starter)Assam, India
Xiaoqu / jiuyao (small qu, "wine medicine")Southern China2–3 days28–35 °C
Yanyanku (Hibiscus-seed fermentation starter for sonru)Benin

Bold names have a full page with the animated steps. Blank cells: no sourced value yet.

Short entries

What the sources record about each of these so far.

Black koji (kuro-koji)Okinawa

Also called 黒麹, awamori koji, Aspergillus luchuensis koji.

koji for awamori and some shochu

  1. Incubate black koji40–45 h · 35–40 °C

Safety: Black spores make a dusty, staining workplace (historical reason white koji was adopted).

Bubod (binubudan starter)Philippines

powdered starter for tapuy and binubudan (sweet fermented rice); also for basi in Ilocos

Cocklebur-water divine qu (又作神麴方) and its wine (神麴酒方, 清麴法)Northern China

Also called 胡葉湯神麴.

light, fragrant wine; the text says 'too much rice makes it sweet' is a misunderstanding of the end-point

  1. Make cakes in the first half of the 7th month
  2. Incubateturn day 7; heap day 14; string 50 cakes per cord on day 21 and hang indoors out of sun; after 5 more days hang outdoors in sun by day and dew and frost by night
  3. Prepare qu for brewing20 days
  4. Soak qu (清麴)15 days
  5. Repeated additionsfirst 4 dou millet; after 1–2 nights 6 dou; third 7–8 dou; then as strength allows; every 2–3 nights
  6. Press and store
  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 64
Dombea / medombae (Cambodian dried starter)Cambodia

Also called មេដំបែ, mae, dombae, buh, puh.

starter for Cambodian rice wine (sraa)

  1. Lab-scale use: steam soaked red rice, cool, add 2 % starter
  2. Solid-state aerobic mould phase3 days
  3. Add water for the alcoholic phase+7 days (10 total)
EmaoAssam

starter for jou gwran / jumai (Bodo rice beer)

  • (listed in NE Indian starter reviews; not fetched this round)
Fuqu (bran qu, pure-culture bran koji)China

Also called 麸曲, bran koji, Yantai method qu.

cheap, fast enzyme source for 'fuqu' baijiu (lower cost, lighter flavour than daqu)

  1. Moisten and steam bran
  2. Inoculate pure Aspergillus and grow in boxes or ventilated beds24 h – 2 days · 30–40 °C
Goori (고리, 古里), wheat-based vinegar starterKorea

Also called 고리, 古里, 高里, gori.

vinegar starter and goori vinegar

  1. Make goori from wheat (method in Sangayorok and Suun japbang)
  2. Brew goori vinegar (고리초, 古里酢)
  • Lim & Cha 2010, KJFC 25(6):680–707
HameiManipur, India

starter for atingba (Manipuri rice beer) and its distillate yu

  1. Pound soaked rice and mix with bark filtrate30 min
  2. Press into flat cakes with old hamei
  3. Incubate over the hearth on paddy husk or straw2–5 days
  4. Air-dry
Hedong divine qu (河東神麴方) and its millet wineHedong

Also called 河東神麴, herbal-decoction wheat qu.

millet wine; 1 dou qu ferments 1 dan millet (glutinous millet makes thin wine)

  1. Mix qu with cooled herb decoction; pound 1,000 strokes; square-mould cakesmade on the 7th of the 7th month, or before the 20th
  2. Lie-down incubation (卧麴法)7 days
  3. Soak qu10 days
  4. Add millet in many steps15 days · 11 °C
  5. Summer test and storagein the 5th month, a bowl of each jar is set in the sun; good wine does not change colour
  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 64
High-temperature daqu (gaowen daqu, for sauce-aroma baijiu)Guizhou

Also called 高温大曲, jiangxiang daqu, Maotai qu.

dark, aromatic wheat brick: saccharifying, fermenting and aroma starter for jiangxiang baijiu

  1. Crush wheat and mix with water and 'mother qu'minutes
  2. Tread into bricks (cai qu)minutes per brick
  3. Stack in qu room under straw40 days
  4. Turn bricks (fan qu)turned ~2 times, ~day 7 and day 14 (typical)
  5. Dry and storeat least 3 months
Hongqu (red yeast rice, red qu)Fujian

Also called 红曲, 紅麴, 紅糀, angkak, red koji, beni-koji.

deep red grains used as starter + colorant for hongqu jiu (red rice wine), red rice vinegar, fermented red tofu, char siu, Fujian red-lees (hongzao) dishes, Okinawan tofuyo, Japanese akaisake

  1. Soak and steam rice
  2. Inoculate and incubate in warm room3–6 days · 30–40 °C
  3. Dry, pierce and thread on bamboo strips, hang above stove

Safety: Red yeast rice contains monacolin K, the same compound as the drug lovastatin, so it can interact with medicines. Some Monascus strains make citrinin, a kidney toxin.

Huangyi and huangzheng ("yellow coat" and "yellow steamed" mould starters)Northern China

Also called 黃衣, 黃蒸, Northern Wei loose mould starters.

loose-grain mould starter, an ancestor of koji

  1. Soak wheat until sour, drain and steam
  2. Spread on mats and cover with reed leaves7 days
  3. Sun-dry without winnowing off the coat

Safety: Spontaneous mould starters can carry aflatoxigenic Aspergillus flavus.

  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 68, Wikisource text
  • Huang H.T. 2000, Science and Civilisation in China Vol. 6 Part V: Fermentations and Food Science, Cambridge University Press
Huangzheng (黃蒸), yellow steamed-flour starterNorthern China

Also called 黃蒸, yellow steamed.

loose starter; the text says it makes jiang red and tasty

  1. Steam moistened flour, spread to cool, cover as for huangyi7 days

Safety: Do not winnow off the coat.

  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 68
Ikpiru / iku-iru (Hibiscus-seed starter for iru, Benin)Benin

Also called ikpiru, iku-iru.

additive added at the end of the second cooking of néré cotyledons to make Beninese iru

  1. Cook seeds with Boerhavia erecta leaves, stems and roots1 h
  2. Ferment in covered calabashes with B. erecta roots36 h optimal; studied to 96 h
  3. Pound, sun-dry, mix with pepper (iku-iru)days
Jiaozi (dried dough-crumb starter for mantou)Northern China

Also called 酵子, 老面, 老酵, 干酵子, jiaozi, laomian.

Jiaozi is a Chinese traditional starter for steamed buns (mantou). A grain base such as wheat flour, rice, corn flour or bran is mixed with water, fermented naturally again and again, and air-dried into crumbs or powder that keep between bakes. It carries a mixed culture led by Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum.

  1. Mix the grain base with water and old dough
  2. Let it ferment naturally, repeatedly
  3. Air-dry into crumbs or powder
  4. Revive in warm water and flour

Safety: One study notes that these mixed starters may even contain pathogenic bacteria along with yeasts, lactic bacteria, Bacillus and Acetobacter. The finished buns are steamed.

Loog-pang (Thai starter balls)Thailand, Laos

Also called ลูกแป้ง, look-pang, luk paeng, loogpang khao mak, loogpang lao.

starter for khao mak, sato, ou (jar wine), lao khao (distilled)

  1. Grind rice with herbs and shape small balls
  2. Incubate and dryfew days (typical)
Low-temperature daqu (diwen daqu, for light-aroma baijiu)Shanxi

Also called 低温大曲, 清香大曲, Fenjiu qu, qingxiang daqu.

Peak only 40–50 °C (some papers 45–50). The core microbes are Thermoactinomyces, Lactobacillus, Saccharopolyspora, Bacillus and Streptomyces, with the fungi Saccharomycopsis and Thermoascus. Fenjiu blends three sub-types made on different temperature curves (qingcha, hongxin, houhuo).

Made like High-temperature daqu (gaowen daqu, for sauce-aroma baijiu).

Mana and manapuNepal

Mana is a granular koji-like wheat starter, unlike ball-shaped marcha (reported, Tamang).

Medium-temperature daqu (zhongwen daqu, for strong-aroma baijiu)Sichuan

Also called 中温大曲, 中高温大曲, nongxiang daqu, Luzhou qu.

Peak 50–60 °C. Bio-heat in the first 4 days from Candida/Wickerhamomyces and bacteria raises the brick to ~55 °C; holding bricks at 37 °C instead lowers thermotolerant Bacillus/Thermoactinomyces/Thermoascus [XIAO2017-ASM]. More flavour compounds detected (328) than HT (255) or LT (140) in one comparison (search summary).

  1. Incubate25–30 days · 50–60 °C
Men (bánh men)Vietnam

Also called men, bánh men, men lá, men thuốc bắc.

starter for rượu nếp, rượu đế, rượu cần, cơm rượu

Myanmar rice-wine starter balls (Burmese name unverified)Myanmar

starter for khaung ye (hsan khaung ye, ဆန်ခေါင်ရည်) and khaung (rice/sorghum beer)

  1. Grind rice and sun-dry
  2. Shape balls and coat with rice husk
  3. Dry, pierce and thread on bamboo strips, and hang above the stove7 days
Ragi (ragi tape, Indonesian/Malay starter cake)Indonesia, Malaysia, Brunei

starter for tapai/tape (rice, cassava), brem, tuak, arak

  1. Mix rice flour and spices into dough
  2. Press cakes
  3. Incubate on banana leaves2–3 days
  4. Dry and store
Ritual "divine" wheat qu (造神麴, three-wheat method with qu kings)Northern China

Also called 神麴, 麥麴, Northern Wei divine ferment cake.

strong qu; the text says 1 dou of this qu 'kills' (ferments) about 3 dan of grain

  1. Mix stiff dough and shape cakes by handone day (shaping must finish the same day)
  2. Incubate sealed7 days
  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 64 造神麴并酒
Roman barley-cake leaven (any season)Roman Italy

Also called fermentum.

A sour leaven made at any time of year.

  1. Make two-pound barley cakes and bake on a hot hearth or in an earthen dish under ashes until reddish-brown
  2. Seal in vessels until fully souruntil sour
  3. Steep in water before use
  • Pliny, Natural History XVIII.26, Project Gutenberg 61113
Roman millet-and-must leaven (Pliny)Roman Italy

Also called fermentum (Latin), millet leaven, vintage leaven.

A year-long leaven for bread.

  1. Knead millet with must at vintage timemade only at vintage
  2. Keepa whole year
Roman wheat-bran and white-must leaven cakes (Pliny's 'best' leaven)Roman Italy

Also called fermentum, bran-must leaven.

Dried leaven cakes revived in water; Pliny calls it the best method.

  1. Knead bran with three-day-old white must3 days
  2. Shape small cakes and sun-dry
  3. Soak cakes in water, boil with finest spelt flour, mix into the meal
  • Pliny, Natural History XVIII.26, Project Gutenberg 61113
Sasad (Sabah ragi)Sabah, Malaysian Borneo

Local Bornean ragi; market starters vary widely in microbial composition (UMS study).

Made like Ragi (ragi tape, Indonesian/Malay starter cake).

Shaoxing jiuyao (white medicine, small qu)Shaoxing, Zhejiang

Also called 酒药, 白药, 小曲, 酒饼.

white or pale-yellow friable cakes with normal starter aroma

  1. Harvest laliao herbearly July, before flowering; dried the same day; leaves only, sieved 50 mesh (SX-SPEC 6.1.2.2)
  2. Mix rice flour, herb powder and water; pound, press, cut and round the cubes
  3. Roll in powdered old jiuyao (inoculate)
  4. Incubate30–35 h
  5. Sun-dryat least 3 days
Shaoxing wheat qu (traditional maiqu) and pure-culture wheat quShaoxing, Zhejiang

Also called 麦曲, 传统麦曲, 纯种麦曲.

  1. Crush each grain into 3–5 pieces
  2. Mix with water
  3. Form blocks and stack them in a T-shape, 2–3 layers on husk and bamboo mats
  4. Warm incubation55 °C
  5. Ventilate and dry
Sorghum/millet malt as "starter" (Africa)Sub-Saharan Africa

Unlike Asian mould starters, African cereal beers saccharify by malting (germinating grain), then sour with LAB and ferment with yeast carried over from the previous brew (back-slop dregs, yeast-rich sediment, or dried yeast cakes). Mould starters are rare in African brewing.

  1. Steep grain12–24 h
  2. Germinate3–6 days · 25–30 °C
  3. Sun-dry and mill
Tane-koji (koji spores, moyashi)Japan

Also called 種麹, もやし, koji-kin, seed koji.

dry spore powder

  1. Mix wood ash into steamed rice
  2. Inoculate and grow to full sporulation30–35 °C
  3. Dry and sieve spores
ThiatMeghalaya, India

starter for kiad (Khasi rice beer/distillate)

  1. Grind soaked glutinous rice with Amomum leaves/roots
  2. Shape flat/round balls with old thiat
  3. Ferment1–3 days
  4. Sun-dry3–5 days

Safety: Enterobacteriaceae (Cronobacter) dominance flagged as a hygiene issue [SHA2017].

Tou-huang (soy fermentation pellicle, historical China)China

Also called 豆黄, soy pellicle.

medicinal powder

  1. Cover steamed black beans with artemisia stalks; let pellicle form; remove, sun-dry, powder
West-wing divine qu and its millet wine (又神麴法 + 造酒法)Northern China

Also called 神麴.

millet wine

  1. Shape cakes
  2. Incubateturn day 7, heap day 14, out day 21
  3. Brew

Safety: Chickens and dogs must not see or eat the qu (ritual hygiene).

  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 64
White koji (shiro-koji)Kagoshima, Kyushu, Japan

Also called 白麹, Kawachi koji, Aspergillus kawachii.

Albino mutant of black koji: same citric-acid protection but no black spore dust; easy to grow, saccharifies fast; lighter, cleaner shochu; now used for most shochu. White koji makes ~10x the citric acid of yellow koji (WP Sake).

Made like Black koji (kuro-koji).

Women's qu (女麴), rice-cake mould starterNorthern China

Also called 女麴, nü qu.

rice mould starter used for melon pickles, chi and pickle wine; a gloss says '女麴者,麥黃衣也' (women's qu is a wheat yellow coat), so usage was loose

  1. Steam soft glutinous rice, chill, press into qu-mould cakes
  2. Cover above and below with green artemisia on a bed21 days
  3. Sun-dry

Safety: Spontaneous yellow moulds can include aflatoxigenic A. flavus.

  • Jia Sixie, Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), ch. 88
Xaj-pitha (Ahom rice wine starter)Assam, India

Also called সাজপিঠা, xaj pitha, saj-pitha.

starter used at ~4 cakes per kg of steamed glutinous (bora) rice for xaj/rohi

  1. Make round/oval cakes of rice flour + herbs
Xiaoqu / jiuyao (small qu, "wine medicine")Southern China

Also called 小曲, 酒药, 酒曲丸, 白药, jiuqu, chiu.

small dry white balls; xiaoqu is used at 0.3–0.6 % of rice weight for huangjiu (ZHWP 黄酒)

  1. Mix rice flour with herb powder and water
  2. Roll small balls and dust with old jiuyao powderminutes
  3. Incubate in rice husk/straw box2–3 days · 28–35 °C
  4. Dry, pierce and thread on bamboo strips, hang above stoveseveral days (typical)
Yanyanku (Hibiscus-seed fermentation starter for sonru)Benin

Also called yanyanku, yanyanku starter.

dried fermented Hibiscus-seed starter used as a softening and flavouring additive for néré fermentation

  1. Cook seeds in ash-leachate water1 h
  2. Solid-state fermentation in covered baskets36 h optimal (no significant change 36–96 h); studied to 96 h
  3. Pound and sun-dryuntil dry (days)

Numbers come from cited sources and carry a label that says how each is known. How this atlas is made