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Cheese from Italy, Trentino
Ricotta is a boundary entry, set by heat and acid, not by microbes. Whey left from cow-milk cheesemaking is heated to 85–89 °C, then acid whey, wine vinegar or magnesium sulphate is added so the whey proteins rise as white flakes. The ricotta drains in baskets for about eight hours and is eaten within three days, or smoked for about a week into a firmer, brown-crusted poìna fumàda. Made in 6 steps over 10 days. The longest step, smoke (poìna fumàda), takes 7 days (Provincia autonoma di Trento 2013).
| Main step | 7 daysReported[pat2013][onaf] | Smoke (poìna fumàda) |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 85–89 °CReported[pat2013][onaf] | Heat the whey |
| Whey from cow-milk cheesemaking · From cows fed permanent-meadow hay or pasture[pat2013] | |
| 0.3–0.5 % (magnesium sulphate) | Agro (sour whey), wine vinegar or magnesium sulphate · Any one of the three, added to the hot whey[pat2013][onaf] |
| Starter | none; heat and acid make the curd |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days
What changes: Starting material: warm whey left in the cauldron after cheesemaking
After the cheese curd is lifted out, the whey stays in the cauldron or is poured back in through a cloth.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The Trentino sheet allows three ways to set the whey - sour whey (agro), wine vinegar or magnesium sulphate. Its smoked form was once kept like a hard grating cheese in mountain homes.
Fresh ricotta is moist and spoils fast, so the PAT sheet keeps it at 4 °C for no more than three days.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The PAT sheet quotes an 1898 statistic, reported by Cesare Battisti in 1912, in which the 42 summer dairies of Primiero recorded ricotta alongside butter and cheese. Corrado Trotter (1979) described two kinds of poìna, a soft goat one and a smoked, aged one used as a grating cheese before grana was known there. Lease contracts for summer pastures required a share of poìna for the local hospice. The social dairy of Primiero later took over the village dairies' methods.
