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Cheese from Dali, Yunnan, China
Cow milk is poured into hot soured whey from an earlier batch, and the curd that forms at about 70 °C is kneaded and stretched by hand into a thin sheet. The sheet is wound on a bamboo stick and air-dried for about three days into a brittle "milk fan". Acid from the fermented whey, not rennet, sets the curd. Made in 4 steps over 17 days. The longest step, let the whey ferment into acid whey, takes 14 days (Tang R. et al. 2026). Lactobacillus helveticus, the dominant lactic bacterium in acid whey and Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens and L. helveticus, the two most abundant lactobacilli; with Lactococcus and Streptococcus the dominant genera in rushan do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 14 daysMeasured[tang2026] | Let the whey ferment into acid whey |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 70 °CReported[xue2018] | Heat milk with the acid until it curdles |
| Acidity | pH at least 5Reported[tang2026] | Heat milk with the acid until it curdles |
| Cow milk · Milk of the local Dengchuan cattle is prized for its fat and protein[xue2018] | |
| Acid whey · Whey from the previous batch, left to ferment; it is the starter and the coagulant[liu2009][tang2026] | |
| 1 part to 2 parts milk (by volume) | Acid water · In one controlled study, made by boiling Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis) with water, 1:3 by weight, for half an hour, in place of whey[xue2018] |
| Starter | acid whey from the previous batch (backslopping), dominated by Lactobacillus helveticus |
Total time across the recorded steps: 17 days
What changes: Whey from the last batch ferments, and its pH falls from about 5 to 3.5
Whey is up to 90 % of the milk volume, so each batch leaves plenty for the next. Output: acid whey (starter and coagulant).
Microbes at work in this step
lactic bacteria multiply first and make the acid; acid-tolerant yeasts follow
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Rushan is set by fermented whey and heat, not rennet, then stretched by hand like a pasta filata and dried as thin sheets. Rubing, the Yunnan goat-milk cheese, is also acid-and-heat set, often with sour whey, but it is kept as a firm fresh cheese instead of being stretched and dried.
Staphylococcus aureus was found in 5 of 62 rushan samples (8.06 %). The curd is heated to about 70 °C and the strips are dried, but they are made by hand, so cook rushan before eating.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus, found in 5 of 62 rushan samples (8.06 %).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Rushan is part of Bai culture around Dali and has been eaten in Yunnan for over 1,000 years. It is still made by backslopping, with whey from one batch souring the next.
