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Cheese from Southern Italy, the Balkans, the Caucasus, Turkey, Mexico, Yunnan
Milk is set with a whey starter and rennet, and the curd is left to sour for hours until a melted sample pulls into long strands. The curd is then kneaded and stretched in very hot water, shaped, firmed in cold water and brined, and eaten fresh or hung to age. Made in 6 steps over 10 days – 35 days. The longest step, firm in cold water and brine, takes 25 min – 25 days (Levante A 2023) and runs at 16.5–19.5 °C (Levante A 2023). Salt is 4–18 % (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…). Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus delbrueckii do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 25 min – 25 daysReported[levante2023][provolone-onaf] | Firm in cold water and brine |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 16.5–19.5 °CMeasured[levante2023] | Firm in cold water and brine |
| Salt | 4–18 %Reported[bufala-onaf][levante2023] | Firm in cold water and brine |
| Acidity | pH 5.2–5.6Measured[bittante2022] | Dry and age (provolone, caciocavallo, kashkaval) |
| Milk · Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO: buffalo milk with at least 7.2 % fat and 4.2 % protein; cow milk for Provolone Valpadana[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] | |
| Natural whey starter · Whey soured from earlier makes of the same dairy[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] | |
| 18–20 ml per hl milk | Calf rennet · Mozzarella di Bufala Campana dose, strength 1:10,000; Provolone piccante uses kid or lamb rennet paste[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] |
| Hot water · For stretching the soured curd[bufala-onaf][provolone-onaf] | |
| Salt · As brine[bufala-onaf] | |
| Starter | natural whey starter of thermophilic lactic bacteria, or defined thermophilic cultures; some industrial makes acidify with citric acid instead |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 35 days
What changes: Whey starter and rennet go into warm milk and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the whey starter brings heat-loving lactic bacteria
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The soured curd is melted and stretched in very hot water, which lines the proteins up into fibres. Other rennet cheeses are pressed or moulded without this hot kneading step.
Stretching heats the curd to 55–65 °C, but fresh pasta filata is high in moisture and is eaten within weeks. The UK NHS lists pasteurised mozzarella as safe in pregnancy and advises eating unpasteurised soft cheeses only when cooked until steaming hot, because of Listeria.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes in soft cheese made from unpasteurised milk.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Mozzarella is commonly said to be named in a 1570 cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi.
