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San Francisco sourdough is a crusty white bread leavened only by a firm sourdough sponge that bakeries rebuild every eight hours. Its souring bacterium, now called Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, was first isolated from these bakeries in 1971, alongside a yeast that cannot use maltose. The long, warm final proof gives the bread its strong sourness. Made in 5 steps over 15 h – 18 h. The longest step, rebuild the sponge, takes 7–8 h (dmsnyder 2012) and runs at 26.7 °C (dmsnyder 2012). Salt is 2 % (dmsnyder 2012). Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, a heterofermentative lactic bacterium that needs maltose; acetic acid is 3–26 % of its acids in culture and 20–35 % in sourdough and A maltose-negative yeast, then named Saccharomyces exiguus (Torulopsis holmii); all isolates from four of five bakeries and 70 % from the fifth do most of the fermenting.
Amounts from a sourceBaker's percentages (flour = 100) from Kline, Sugihara and McCready's 1970 account of the San Francisco process, as reproduced by a home baker in 2012; the original article was not opened.
Sponge rebuild · The firm starter is refreshed with an equal weight of flour[freshloaf2012]
Starter
backslop (firm sponge rebuilt every 8 hours)
Total time across the recorded steps: 15 h – 18 h
Start
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What changes:Fresh flour and water go into the sour sponge, which ripens for eight hours
Step 1 of 5
Rebuild the sponge
Time
7–8 h
Reported
Temperature
26.7 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
L. sanfranciscensis
Candida milleri
Yeasts
A home version can ferment 6 hours and then be held at 50–55 °F (10–13 °C). Output: ripe, sour sponge.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
the bacterium needs maltose; the yeast cannot use maltose and grows on other sugars, so the two do not compete. In a growth model the sourdough yeast Candida milleri grew best at 27 °C, cooler than the bacterium
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
What makes this one different
Most sourdough starters are fed once or twice a day at room temperature (20–25 °C). The San Francisco bakeries rebuilt a firm sponge every 8 hours and proofed the shaped loaves for 6–8 hours at 85–90 °F, which builds a strong sourness.
Sponge rebuild
Every 8 hours at 80 °F in the bakery
Acetic acid
20–35 % of the total acid in sourdough; 5 % or less without air and 23–39 % with air in broth culture
In 1971 researchers at the USDA Western Regional Research Center isolated the bacteria behind the souring in what they called the 100-year-old San Francisco sour dough French bread process, and found its yeast could not use maltose.