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Fermentation Atlas

Cereals and bread from USA

San Francisco sourdough French bread

San Francisco sourdough is a crusty white bread leavened only by a firm sourdough sponge that bakeries rebuild every eight hours. Its souring bacterium, now called Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, was first isolated from these bakeries in 1971, alongside a yeast that cannot use maltose. The long, warm final proof gives the bread its strong sourness. Made in 5 steps over 15 h – 18 h. The longest step, rebuild the sponge, takes 7–8 h (dmsnyder 2012) and runs at 26.7 °C (dmsnyder 2012). Salt is 2 % (dmsnyder 2012). Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis, a heterofermentative lactic bacterium that needs maltose; acetic acid is 3–26 % of its acids in culture and 20–35 % in sourdough and A maltose-negative yeast, then named Saccharomyces exiguus (Torulopsis holmii); all isolates from four of five bakeries and 70 % from the fifth do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step7–8 hReported[freshloaf2012]Rebuild the sponge
Temperature26.7 °CReported[freshloaf2012]Rebuild the sponge
Salt2 %Reported[freshloaf2012]Mix the dough and rest
Fully documentedCereals and bread15 h – 18 hMore cereals and breadMore from United States

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceBaker's percentages (flour = 100) from Kline, Sugihara and McCready's 1970 account of the San Francisco process, as reproduced by a home baker in 2012; the original article was not opened.
100All-purpose flour (dough) · Baker's percentages[freshloaf2012]
20Sponge (starter)[freshloaf2012]
60Water[freshloaf2012]
2Salt[freshloaf2012]
100 starter : 100 high-gluten flour : 46–52 waterSponge rebuild · The firm starter is refreshed with an equal weight of flour[freshloaf2012]
Starterbackslop (firm sponge rebuilt every 8 hours)

Total time across the recorded steps: 15 h – 18 h

Start
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26.7 °C

What changes: Fresh flour and water go into the sour sponge, which ripens for eight hours

Step 1 of 5
Rebuild the sponge
Time
7–8 h
Reported
Temperature
26.7 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
L. sanfranciscensis
Candida milleri
Yeasts

A home version can ferment 6 hours and then be held at 50–55 °F (10–13 °C). Output: ripe, sour sponge.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

the bacterium needs maltose; the yeast cannot use maltose and grows on other sugars, so the two do not compete. In a growth model the sourdough yeast Candida milleri grew best at 27 °C, cooler than the bacterium

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Most sourdough starters are fed once or twice a day at room temperature (20–25 °C). The San Francisco bakeries rebuilt a firm sponge every 8 hours and proofed the shaped loaves for 6–8 hours at 85–90 °F, which builds a strong sourness.

Sponge rebuild
Every 8 hours at 80 °F in the bakery
Acetic acid
20–35 % of the total acid in sourdough; 5 % or less without air and 23–39 % with air in broth culture

Related ferments

Variants

  • Amish friendship breadA sweet, milk-fed starter passed between friends; see the Herman friendship starter entry.

Safety

A mature type I sourdough reaches about pH 4.0. Between feeds, starters are usually kept at 4 °C.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

In 1971 researchers at the USDA Western Regional Research Center isolated the bacteria behind the souring in what they called the 100-year-old San Francisco sour dough French bread process, and found its yeast could not use maltose.

  1. [kline1971] Kline L., Sugihara T.F. 1971, Microorganisms of the San Francisco sour dough bread process. II. Isolation and characterization of undescribed bacterial species responsible for the souring activity, Applied Microbiology 21:459–465, doi:10.1128/am.21.3.459-465.1971 (abstract)paper
  2. [sugihara1971] Sugihara T.F., Kline L., Miller M.W. 1971, Microorganisms of the San Francisco sour dough bread process. I. Yeasts responsible for the leavening action, Applied Microbiology 21:456–458, doi:10.1128/am.21.3.456-458.1971 (abstract)paper
  3. [ng1972] Ng H. 1972, Factors affecting organic acid production by sourdough (San Francisco) bacteria, Applied Microbiology 23:1153–1159 (abstract)paper
  4. [ganzle1998] Gänzle M.G., Ehmann M., Hammes W.P. 1998, Modeling of growth of Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis and Candida milleri in response to process parameters of sourdough fermentation, Applied and Environmental Microbiology 64:2616–2623, doi:10.1128/aem.64.7.2616-2623.1998 (abstract)paper
  5. [coronas2025] Coronas R. et al. 2025, Type I sourdough preservation strategies and the contribution of microbial biological resource centers to biodiversity protection, a narrative review, Foods 14:2624, doi:10.3390/foods14152624paper
  6. [freshloaf2012] dmsnyder 2012, San Francisco Sour Dough French Bread, The Fresh Loaf (15 January 2012), reproducing the formula of Kline, Sugihara and McCready, The Bakers Digest, April 1970web