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Cheese from Spain, Galicia, Terra Chá district of Lugo
Raw or pasteurised whole cow milk is set with rennet and lactococcal starters, cut, pressed in cloth in pear-shaped moulds and brined for up to a day. After at least 45 days of ripening (30 for the small Bufón), the cheese is smoked over barkless birch wood until the rind turns ochre-yellow and oily. Made in 8 steps over 7.1 months. The longest step, keep cold, often vacuum-packed, takes 6 months (Franco I 2023) and runs at 4 °C (Franco I 2023). Salt is 14–17 % (European Commission 2008). Lactococcus lactis starters does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6 monthsMeasured[franco2023] | Keep cold, often vacuum-packed |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4 °CMeasured[franco2023] | Keep cold, often vacuum-packed |
| Salt | 14–17 %Set[ssc-spec2008] | Brine |
| Acidity | pH 5.8Measured[franco2023] | Keep cold, often vacuum-packed |
| Whole cow milk, raw or pasteurised · Not standardised; kept at 4 °C or below and used within 48 hours of milking[ssc-spec2008] |
| Rennet (chymosin and pepsin)[ssc-spec2008] |
| Lactococcal starter cultures · Native strains are encouraged[ssc-spec2008] |
| Brine of 14–17 % salt[ssc-spec2008] |
| Birch wood without bark · For smoking[ssc-spec2008] |
| Olive oil (optional) · An anti-mould bath before smoking[ssc-spec2008] |
| Starter: Lactococcus lactis strains (listed as L. lactis, Streptococcus cremoris and S. lactis) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7.1 months
What changes: Starting material: whole milk of Galician Blond, Brown Swiss and Friesian cows
If pasteurised, the milk is treated under the EU hygiene rules for food of animal origin.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
San Simón is pressed in cloth into a tall pointed shape and smoked over barkless birch after it has ripened, which gives its glossy ochre rind. Its neighbour Tetilla has the same Galician milk but is unsmoked and softer.
When made from raw milk, this is an uncooked pressed raw-milk cheese. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity to avoid raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Comté. The label must say whether the milk was raw or pasteurised.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli (risks ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Legend traces the cheese to the Celtic hill-fort people of the Carba and Xistral ranges, and tradition says Romans shipped it to Rome. It was later used to pay rents and tithes to lords and the Church. San Simón da Costa is a parish of Vilalba, where the applicant cheesemakers were based; the PDO was registered in 2008.
