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Cheese from Spain, eastern Asturias
Raw cow, sheep or goat milk, alone or mixed, is curdled at 22–30 °C, cut small, moulded and dry-salted. The fresh cheeses are smoked over native hardwood until the rind turns burnt sienna, then ripen in limestone caves, where Penicillium from the cave may creep in from the rind as faint blue-green streaks. Made in 6 steps over 2 months. The longest step, ripen in limestone caves, takes at least 2 months (European Commission 2024) and runs at up to 12 °C (European Commission 2024). Lactic acid bacteria of the raw milk and Penicillium from the caves, which may bloom blue-green in the paste near the rind do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 2 monthsSet[gamoneu-spec2024] | Ripen in limestone caves |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 12 °CSet[gamoneu-spec2024] | Ripen in limestone caves |
| Raw milk of cow, sheep or goat, alone or mixed · From registered herds fed mainly by grazing; del Puerto cheese must mix two or three kinds[gamoneu-spec2024] |
| Animal rennet or another authorised milk-clotting enzyme[gamoneu-spec2024] |
| Salt (sodium chloride) · Rubbed on the top and bottom faces[gamoneu-spec2024] |
| Ash, heath, beech or other native hardwood · For smoking[gamoneu-spec2024] |
| No added moulds · Fungi and yeasts must come from the ripening caves, never added to the milk[gamoneu-spec2024] |
| Starter: the raw-milk flora sours the milk; Penicillium and yeasts come from the caves |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months
What changes: Starting material: raw milk of cows, sheep and goats from mountain pastures
Bought-in feed may not exceed 50 % of dry matter in a year.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Gamonéu is smoked before it goes into the cave, and no mould is ever added. Any blue comes only from cave Penicillium working in from the rind, so it stays a faint edge instead of the full veining of Cabrales.
This is a raw-milk cheese. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Comté; Gamonéu is uncooked. Cooking the cheese removes the risk.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli (risks ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
A letter to King Philip IV in 1641 about grazing land says the cheese fed the poor of the district, and Madoz's geographical dictionary mentions it as a staple. Herders far from markets turned their mixed-flock milk into cheese and ripened it in the mountain caves. The area became Spain's first national park, Montaña de Covadonga, in 1918.
