Skip to main content
Support

Browse by category

All categories
Fermentation Atlas

Sauces and condiments from Japan

Shottsuruしょっつる

Hatahata (sailfin sandfish) or other small fish are salted at about a fifth of their weight, the liquid that seeps out is boiled and poured back, and the weighted fish slowly liquefy for one to several years. The filtered, boiled liquid is a clear, very salty fish sauce used mainly in shottsuru hotpot. Made in 6 steps over 12 months. The longest step, let the fish liquefy, takes at least 12 months (Ministry of Agriculture). Salt is 20 % (Ministry of Agriculture). Halobacterium, Bacillus and unidentified cocci and Aerococcus viridans do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 12 monthsReported[maff][arif2016]Let the fish liquefy
Salt20 %Reported[maff]Salt the fish
AciditypH 6Measured[fujii1984]Filter, boil and bottle
Fully documentedSauces and condiments12 monthsMore sauces and condimentsMore from Japan

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceMAFF gives the salt only as a share of the fish weight. There is no fixed batch size; the amounts describe the proportion, not a tested recipe.
Hatahata (sailfin sandfish), or sardine and other fish · Hatahata is the best-known fish; MAFF says sardine and other fish are also used[maff]
About 20 % of the fish weightSalt · Added so that liquid seeps out of the fish; more salt is added in a second salting[maff]
Starterspontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
Close-up: salt moving into a pieceSalt 20 %

What changes: Salt at about a fifth of the fish weight draws liquid out of the fish

Step 1 of 6
Salt the fish
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
20 %
Reported
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Bacillus
Pediococcus homari
Yeasts

Output: salted fish and the liquid that seeps out.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Shottsuru is Akita's own fish sauce, made traditionally from hatahata. The first liquid is boiled, filtered and poured back over the weighted fish before the long liquefying stage, and the sauce is boiled again before bottling. Unlike nam pla, it is not sun-ripened, and nearly all of it goes into a single dish.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Enzyme-method shottsuruDeveloped by the Akita Research Institute of Food and Brewing; an enzyme preparation is added, giving more umami amino acids, and lets makers use Pacific cod, horse mackerel or Spanish mackerel as well as hatahata.
  • Sardine shottsuruMade from sardine or other fish instead of hatahata.

Safety

Codex requires fish sauce to be made from fish fit to sell fresh, to hold at least 200 g/L salt, and to contain no more than 40 mg histamine per 100 g. The shottsuru Fujii and Sakai analysed held 27.5–27.8 % salt.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Fish sauce was once made widely in Japan but faded as soy sauce spread; shottsuru in Akita and ishiru in Ishikawa remain. Hatahata move inshore to spawn in late November and December, when most are caught. Akita fishers stopped fishing hatahata from 1992 to 1995 to let the stock recover. The prefectural research institute later developed an enzyme method to widen its uses.

  1. [maff] Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan (MAFF), Traditional Japanese food culture, Fermented seafood (suisan hakkō)gov
  2. [fujii1984] Fujii T., Sakai H. 1984, Chemical composition and microflora of fish sauce "shotturu", Nippon Suisan Gakkaishi 50(6):1061–1066, doi:10.2331/suisan.50.1061 (abstract)paper
  3. [arif2016] Akita Research Institute of Food and Brewing (Akita Prefecture), ARIF Letter vol. 21-2, Akita shottsuru, 1 February 2016gov
  4. [codex302] Codex Alimentarius Commission, Standard for Fish Sauce, CXS 302-2011 (amended 2012, 2013), FAO/WHOspec
  5. [tamang2016] Tamang J.P., Watanabe K., Holzapfel W.H. 2016, Review, Diversity of microorganisms in global fermented foods and beverages, Frontiers in Microbiology 7:377 (table entry for shottsuru)paper
  6. [mlit] Japan Tourism Agency multilingual commentary database, Hatahata (R2-01090)gov