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Sauces and condiments from Thailand
Small fish, mostly anchovies, are layered with salt in tanks and weighed down under their own brine for 6 to 18 months, while enzymes from the fish and salt-loving bacteria turn the flesh into a clear amber liquid. The first drained liquid is sun-ripened and bottled as the top grade; the residue is soaked in brine again for lower grades. Made in 6 steps over 10 months – 2 years. The longest step, ferment in the tank, takes 6–18 months (Codex Alimentarius Commission 2011) and runs at 30–40 °C (Disarapong S. 2005). Salt is 25–33 % (Disarapong S. 2005). Tetragenococcus halophilus and Halanaerobium do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–18 monthsSet[codex302][jircas][disarapong2005] | Ferment in the tank |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30–40 °CReported[disarapong2005] | Ferment in the tank |
| Salt | 25–33 %Reported[disarapong2005][jircas] | Layer the fish with salt |
| Acidity | pH 4.8–5.6Measured[huang2025][codex302] | Drain and filter the first liquid |
| 2–3 parts by weight | Small fish, mostly anchovies (Stolephorus spp.) · Washed and used whole[disarapong2005][jircas] |
| 1 part by weight | Salt · Thai makers range from 5:1 to 1:1 fish to salt[disarapong2005][jircas] |
| As needed | Saturated brine · Poured over the residue to extract lower grades[disarapong2005][jircas] |
| Starter | spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 months – 2 years
What changes: Salt layered between the anchovies starts to pull water out of the fish
The fish are washed in cold water first to remove dirt and lower the microbial load. Output: salted fish.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Nam pla is the Thai anchovy sauce made in large tanks and sold by grade of total nitrogen, with Thai law setting a lower nitrogen floor (9 g/L) than Codex (10 g/L). Unlike Phú Quốc nước mắm, which ferments in wooden barrels and is drawn off and poured back until clear, the Thai first extract is sun-ripened for 1–3 months before bottling.
Codex requires at least 200 g/L salt and caps histamine at 40 mg per 100 g of sauce. Histamine forms when fish warm up before salting; 16 Thai brands bought in Taiwan held 26–515 ppm, and at least one was above that cap, so fish must be chilled and salted fresh. Codex also bars fish carrying marine biotoxins.
Hazards the sources name: Histamine-forming bacteria on fish that warm up before salting.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Thailand's Ministry of Public Health set the current fish sauce standard in 2000 (Notification No. 203), replacing a 1989 rule, and later added iodine rules. Thai industry grades sauce by total nitrogen under a 1983 Thai Industrial Standard.
