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Sauces and condiments from Ancient Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts
Small whole fish and fish guts were mixed with salt, left overnight, then set in the sun in open earthenware pots or masonry vats for two to three months and stirred now and then. The fish's own enzymes turned the flesh to liquid, which was strained off through a basket as garum, leaving a paste called allec. Made in 4 steps over 2 months – 3 months. The longest step, ripen in the sun, stirring now and then, takes 2–3 months (Geoponika book 20 1805) and runs at 45–55 °C (Rodríguez-Alcántara Á 2018). Salt is 12.5 % (Geoponika book 20 1805). Salt-tolerant lactic acid bacteria such as Tetragenococcus, by analogy with modern fish sauce; never studied in garum, and fish enzymes do most of the work does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–3 monthsReported[geoponika] | Ripen in the sun, stirring now and then |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 45–55 °CReported[rodriguez2018][garcia2014] | Ripen in the sun, stirring now and then |
| Salt | 12.5 %Reported[geoponika][encrom] | Work the fish with salt and leave overnight |
| 1 modius (a dry measure) | Small fish, or a mix of small fish and fish guts · The Geoponika names atherinae, small mullets, maenae and lycostomi; anchovy remains were found in the Pompeii garum-shop jars[geoponika][rodriguez2018] |
| 2 Italian sextarii | Salt · About 1 part salt to 8 parts fish by volume[geoponika][encrom] |
| 2 sextarii per sextarius of fish (optional) | Old wine · Some makers added it, according to the Geoponika[geoponika] |
| Starter | spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 3 months
What changes: Salt worked into the small fish begins to draw out their juices
Output: salted fish mass.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Garum is the ancient Mediterranean member of the fish-sauce family. Like nam pla it is fish and salt digested by the fish's own enzymes, but the classic recipes ripened it in open pots in the sun for only two to three months and strained it through a basket.
Ancient garum relied on heavy salt and the sun's heat, and too little salt lets fish rot. Anyone making it today should treat it as fish sauce; Codex asks for at least 200 g/L salt and no more than 40 mg histamine per 100 g. Raw, lightly salted fish may also carry fish tapeworm, which was common in the Roman world.
Hazards the sources name: Fish tapeworm (Diphyllobothrium) eggs are common in Roman-era latrines; garum made from raw fish is one suspected route.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Pliny the Elder, in the 1st century CE, described garum as made from fish guts soaked in salt. The Geoponika, a 10th-century Byzantine farming compilation of older texts, preserves the recipes. Large salting factories stood on the coasts of Spain, Portugal and North Africa, and Pompeii's Garum Shop still held jars of anchovy paste when Vesuvius erupted in 79 CE.
