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Sauces and condiments from Province of Salerno, Italy
Colatura di aliciColatura di Alici di Cetara
Colatura di alici is a clear, amber anchovy sauce from Cetara on the Amalfi Coast. Headed and gutted anchovies are layered with sea salt in small wooden barrels (terzigni) under a wooden disc and stones, and ripen for nine months. The liquid is then drawn off through a hole in the barrel and filtered through linen. Made in 5 steps over 9 months. The longest step, ripen under salt, takes 9 months (Ministero delle politiche agricole 2020). Salt is up to 33 % (Ministero delle politiche agricole 2020). No microbes identified; described as enzymatic ripening of the anchovy under salt does most of the fermenting.
Fully documentedSauces and condiments9 monthsDOP (Colatura di Alici di Cetara; Regulation (EU) 2020/1529 of 14 October 2020)More sauces and condimentsMore from Italy
Recipe
Amounts from a sourceThe DOP sets the anchovy-to-salt ratio, not a batch size. A terzigno holds 20 kg; larger wooden barrels hold up to 200 kg.
2 parts by weight (at least)
Anchovies (Engraulis encrasicolus), headed and gutted by hand · In the lab within 12 h of catch; salted within 8 h of arrival[colatura-dop]
1 part by weight (at most)
Sea salt · The anchovy-to-salt weight ratio is at least 2:1[colatura-dop]
Optional
Brine of at least 1 part salt to 5 parts water · For the incruscatura pre-soak of up to 24 h[colatura-dop]
Starter
spontaneous (no starter; ripening by the fish's own enzymes under salt)
Total time across the recorded steps: 9 months
Start
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What changes:Starting material: fresh anchovies, landed within 12 hours
Step 1 of 5
Land the anchovies and bring them in fast
Time
up to 12 h
Set
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Output: fresh anchovies.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
What makes this one different
Colatura is made only from anchovies whose heads and guts are removed by hand, packed with dry sea salt in small wooden barrels under a weighted disc. The liquid is drawn from the bottom of the barrel after nine months, and the DOP requires at least 20 g of salt per 100 g.
Invecchiata (aged) colaturaAn optional extra ageing (affinamento) after the nine months, stated on the label in months or years.
Restaurant-ripened colaturaCetara restaurants may buy certified terzigni, finish them and use the colatura only in their own kitchens.
Poured-back colatura (traditional producer method)The sun-ripened liquid is poured back over the anchovies in late October or early November and drips through the layers before it is drawn off.
Safety
Anchovies are rich in histidine, which bacteria turn into histamine. In five Cetara batches, histamine rose from about 30–50 mg/kg in the raw fish to 407–487 mg/kg in four finished products; EU Regulation 2073/2005 doubles the 100–200 mg/kg fish limit for products ripened enzymatically in brine. Fast handling after catch and correct salt keep it lower.
Hazards the sources name: Histamine-forming (decarboxylase-positive) bacteria of the fish and the surroundings.
Cetara families use colatura on spaghetti or linguine for the Christmas Eve dinner. It was listed as a traditional Campanian product in 2000, restaurants began serving it in the 1980s, and it became a DOP in 2020.