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Sauces and condiments from Britain
Anchovies that have ripened in salt for about a year are pounded, warmed with a little water until they melt, seasoned with cayenne and rubbed through a sieve into a thick bottled sauce. It is a boundary entry; the fermentation happens earlier, while the salted fish mature, not in the sauce itself. Made in 5 steps over 40 days – 12 months. The longest step, ripen the anchovies in salt, takes 40 days – 12 months (Kitchiner W. 1821) and runs at 16–28 °C (Ministero delle politiche agricole alimentari…). Salt is 18–33 % (Ministero delle politiche agricole alimentari…).
| Main step | 40 days – 12 monthsReported[kitchiner1821][acciughe2017] | Ripen the anchovies in salt |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 16–28 °CSet[acciughe2017] | Ripen the anchovies in salt |
| Salt | 18–33 %Set[acciughe2017] | Ripen the anchovies in salt |
| 10–12 | Salted anchovies · Mellow fish that have been in pickle about twelve months; Kitchiner names Gorgona anchovies[kitchiner1821] |
| 1 tablespoon | Cold spring water · Or sherry, Madeira or mushroom ketchup instead of water[kitchiner1821] |
| A quarter of a drachm | Cayenne pepper[kitchiner1821] |
| Optional | Lemon peel, or vinegar or citric acid · Lemon peel only for sauce used at once; acid for a sharper sauce[kitchiner1821] |
| Starter | none (the salted anchovies are already ripened) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 40 days – 12 months
What changes: Layered in salt under a weight, the anchovies slowly ripen until the flesh turns red
The numbers come from the modern Ligurian PGI for salted anchovies, a nearby product; Kitchiner gives only the twelve months. Output: mellow salted anchovies.
Microbes at work in this step
The fish's own enzymes slowly ripen the flesh under salt.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Anchovy essence is made from whole salted anchovies pounded and sieved into a thick sauce, not from liquid drained during fermentation as colatura and Asian fish sauces are. Its own process takes minutes; the slow change happens beforehand, in the salt cure.
Anchovies belong to a fish family that EU law treats as high in histidine. For anchovies matured in brine, no more than two of nine samples may exceed 200 mg/kg histamine and none may exceed 400 mg/kg. Kitchiner already warned that air spoils the sauce, so bottles must be kept tightly closed.
Hazards the sources name: Histamine-forming bacteria (anchovies belong to a high-histidine fish family under EU rules).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Kitchiner's Cook's Oracle (3rd edition 1821) notes that Thomas Young claimed the invention in The Epicure (1815), and that Burgess of the Strand in London had long been famous for making it. Commercial essence was so cheap that Kitchiner advised buying rather than making it.
