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Sauces and condiments from Japan
Koikuchi is Japan's everyday dark soy sauce. Steamed soybeans and roasted, cracked wheat in about equal amounts are grown into koji, mixed with brine and fermented for about 6–8 months, then pressed and heated. It is over 80 % of the soy sauce made in Japan. Made in 6 steps over 6.1 months – 12 months. The longest step, ferment and age the moromi, takes 6–12 months (MAFF) and runs at 15–28 °C (Luh B.S. 1995). Salt is 17–19 % (Luh B.S. 1995). Aspergillus oryzae / A. sojae and Tetragenococcus halophilus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–12 monthsReported[maff-shoyu][maff-hakko][luh1995] | Ferment and age the moromi |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 15–28 °CReported[luh1995] | Ferment and age the moromi |
| Salt | 17–19 %Reported[luh1995] | Mix the koji with brine (moromi) |
| Acidity | pH 4.7Reported[luh1995] | Heat (hi-ire) and bottle |
| 50 parts | Soybeans or defatted soybean flakes · Soaked, then steamed under pressure[luh1995] |
| 50 parts | Wheat · Roasted and cracked[luh1995][jas-shoyu] |
| 0.1–0.2 % | Tane-koji (Aspergillus oryzae or A. sojae spores)[luh1995] |
| 200 parts | Brine, 20 % salt · A government guide gives 1–1.2 times the koji volume[luh1995][maff-hakko] |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter (Aspergillus oryzae or A. sojae tane-koji); salt-tolerant lactic bacteria and yeasts in the brine |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6.1 months – 12 months
What changes: Steam softens the soybeans while hot air roasts the wheat
Output: cooked soybeans and cracked roasted wheat.
Microbes at work in this step
heat kills the raw-material flora
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Koikuchi koji uses about equal soybeans and wheat. Tamari koji is nearly all soybean and shiro shoyu is mostly wheat. Usukuchi uses the same koji but more salt and steps that keep the colour pale. Only brewed (honjōzō) koikuchi can carry the JAS special grade.
With about 17 % salt, brewed soy sauce keeps at room temperature. Naturally brewed soy sauce has little or no 3-MCPD; that contaminant comes from acid-hydrolysed vegetable protein added to some cheaper sauces.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Shurtleff and Aoyagi date the first Japanese mention of soy sauce to AD 775 and the word shoyu to 1597; John Locke's 'saio' of 1679 is the first English reference.
