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Cheese from Austria, Vorarlberg, the Montafon valley
Milk stands one to two days in wooden tubs so the cream rises for butter. The soured skim milk is warmed to no more than 40 °C, and the curd drains under its own weight in a cylindrical mould, then is rubbed with salt. It is eaten young after about a week, or ripened for weeks more until a glassy, greasy rind called the Muffa forms. Made in 7 steps over 37 days – 2.2 months. The longest step, ripen until the Muffa forms, takes 28–42 days (Austrian Federal Ministry of Agriculture (BML…) and runs at 18–20 °C (Austrian Federal Ministry of Agriculture (BML…). Lactic acid bacteria that sour the skim milk and Surface yeasts and bacteria that form the golden to red-brown smear and the Muffa rind do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 28–42 daysReported[bml-sura] | Ripen until the Muffa forms |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 18–20 °CReported[bml-sura] | Ripen until the Muffa forms |
| Cow milk, filtered · Left to stand in wooden Brenten so the cream can be skimmed for butter; only the skim milk makes the cheese[bml-sura] |
| Salt · Rubbed on the drained cheese[bml-sura] |
| Paprika (optional) · Sometimes rubbed on with the salt[bml-sura] |
| No rennet · The curd is set by souring alone[bml-sura] |
| Starter: spontaneous souring of the skim milk in a wooden tub |
Total time across the recorded steps: 37 days – 2.2 months
What changes: Cream rises to the top of the milk and is skimmed off for butter
Output: cream for butter; skim milk for cheese.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sura Kees is set by souring alone, with no rennet, and made from skim milk left after butter making, so it has almost no fat. The government register notes that the Montafon kept this sour-milk method after most regions switched to rennet cheese in the 17th century.
Acid-curd cheeses with a smeared rind ripen from the outside in, so the surface needs clean handling; Listeria monocytogenes has been found in Austrian acid-curd cheese. Keep the cheese cold once ripe.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, found in Austrian acid-curd cheese (Quargel) in a 2009–2010 study of cheese lots.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The register cites the Celts as early cheesemakers in Vorarlberg and names the Käsker mould as their legacy. In the 17th century rennet cheese, which kept and travelled better, pushed out sour-milk cheese in most regions, but not in the Montafon. Alp dairies closed from the 1960s and the cheese declined until a revival in the early 1990s; a local marketing association has promoted it since 1997.
