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Cheese from Austria, Vorarlberg
Raw milk from cows fed without silage is partly skimmed, set with calf rennet and a whey culture, cooked to 51–54 °C and pressed into large wheels. After two to three days in strong brine, the wheels ripen for at least three months while the rind is brushed with salt water, which grows a brown smear rind. Made in 7 steps over 3.1 months – 18 months. The longest step, ripen at least three months, takes 3–18 months (European Commission 2023). Salt is 20 % (Quijada N.M. et al. 2020). Thermophilic lactic cultures and Staphylococcus equorum, the most abundant rind bacterium at every stage do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3–18 monthsSet[vbk-spec2023][quijada2020] | Ripen at least three months |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 51–54 °CSet[vbk-spec2023] | Cut and cook the curd |
| Salt | 20 %Reported[quijada2020] | Salt in a brine bath |
| Raw cow milk · From Vorarlberg only; not thermised, pasteurised or bactofuged; no fermented feed or silage[vbk-spec2023] |
| Calf rennet[vbk-spec2023] |
| Whey culture and lactic acid bacteria cultures · A central base culture of traditional wild strains, then grown on in each dairy[vbk-spec2023] |
| Salt · For the brine bath and for washing the rind[vbk-spec2023] |
| No preservatives, stabilisers or chemical additives[vbk-spec2023] |
| Starter: whey culture and farm-grown lactic cultures; the rind flora is not inoculated |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3.1 months – 18 months
What changes: Starting material: raw milk from cows fed grass and hay, never silage
Only farms that make and feed no silage may deliver; milk is never heat-treated.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
It is a cooked, pressed mountain cheese like Gruyère, but the milk is skimmed a little and set with each dairy's own whey culture. The rind is brushed with salt water all through ripening, so it carries a smear of yeasts and coryneform bacteria that is never inoculated.
This is a raw-milk cheese. A 2025 study of Alpine raw-milk cheeses names a high scalding temperature, good starter cultures and clean milk as the hurdles that keep Staphylococcus aureus and its toxins down; this cheese is scalded at 51–54 °C and ripened at least three months.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus and its enterotoxins, a known risk in Alpine raw-milk cheeses.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification dates fat cheese making in the area to the middle of the 18th century, when altitude, climate and small farms favoured a cheese that kept. Around 1890 local cheese associations began to pool know-how; cooperatives later replaced them. The name was registered as a PDO in 1997 and the specification was rewritten in 2023.
