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Fermentation Atlas

Cooked alpine cheeses

Curd cooked to about 52–56 °C and pressed into large wheels, like Gruyère and Comté.

55 entries listed here.

How these cheeses are made

The shared make of cooked hard alpine cheese family (comté, gruyère and emmentaler as templates). Each cheese below says what it does differently.

  1. Set the milk in a copper vatup to 40 °C
  2. Cut the curd very fine30 min
  3. Cook the curdat least 30 min · 52–59 °C
  4. Collect the curd and press itat least 6 h · at least 12 °C
  5. Saltup to 3 days
  6. Pre-ripen in a cool cellarat least 5 days · 10–15 °C
  7. Warm cellar for eyes (eyed types only)42–56 days · 19–24 °C
  8. Ripen for months on spruce boardsat least 3.9 months · 12–19 °C

Compare them

CheeseRegionMilkRipeningRind
Abondance PDOFrance, Haute-SavoieRaw whole milk from Abondance, Tarentaise and Montbéliarde cows, at least 45% Abondance breedAt least 100 days from renneting
Allgäuer Bergkäse PDOGermany, the AllgäuRaw cow milk from the Allgäu, not heated above 40 °C before rennetingAt least 4 months
Allgäuer Emmentaler PDOGermany, the AllgäuRaw cow milk from the Allgäu, not heated above 40 °C before rennetingAt least 3 months, including at least 4 weeks at 20 °C or more in a fermentation cellar
Allgäuer Sennalpkäse PDOGermany, Bavaria, the alpine mountain area of the Allgäu districts Ostallgäu, Oberallgäu and Lindau, at 800 m or higherRaw cow milk from the alp; evening milk usually skimmedAt least 3 months (wheels up to 15 kg) or 4 months (over 15 kg)
BagòssItaly, Lombardy, province of Brescia, the commune of BagolinoRaw cow milk, partly skimmed by creamingAt least 6 months (proposed PDO rules); 12–24 months in the regional product sheet
Beaufort PDOSavoie, FranceRaw whole cow milk from Tarine and Abondance herdsAt least 5 months at 6–12 °C
Berner Alpkäse / Berner Hobelkäse AOPSwitzerland, Bernese Oberland summer pasturesRaw milk from cows on alpine summer pastures, made daily on the alpAlpkäse at least 4½ months; Hobelkäse at least 18 months
Bitto PDO and Storico RibelleItaly, Lombardy, the province of SondrioRaw whole cow milk from one milking, up to 10% goat milk (10–20% for Storico Ribelle)At least 70 days (PDO); at least 12 months (Storico Ribelle); can age for years
Bregenzerwälder Alpkäse and BergkäseAustria, Vorarlberg6 months – 2 years
Comté PDOFrance, Jura massifRaw milk from within a 25 km circle, cooled at once to below 18 °C and heated to no more than 40 °C before rennetingAt 19 °C or below on spruce boards, at least 120 days from renneting
Emmentaler AOPSwitzerlandRaw cow milk from silage-free farms, made into cheese within 24 hoursAt least 4 months in the area; warm cellar 30–70 days at 19–24 °C
Fontina PDOItaly, the whole Aosta ValleyWhole raw or thermised milk of Valdostana cows, from one or more consecutive milkings, processed within 40 h of the first milkingAt least 80 days at 4–12 °C and RH 90% or more; at least 180 days for "lunga stagionatura"
Fromages du Jura / Jurabergkäse (Chaux-d'Abel, Grand Chaux-d'Abel, Moron, Fornet)Switzerland, the Bernese Jura and canton of Juraat least 2.5 months
Glarner AlpkäseSwitzerland, canton of Glarusat least 2 monthsFirm, cared-for smear rind that dries with age
Graviera AgrafonGreece, the Agrafa area of Karditsa prefectureEwe milk, or ewe milk with at most 30 % goat milk; thermised or pasteurised3 months in all; at least 3 months in the EU summary
Großwalsertaler Bergkäse ('Walserstolz')Austria, Vorarlberg8–12 monthsGranular, golden-brown to brown
Gruyère (French IGP)France, Savoie, Haute-Savoie, Ain, Jura, Doubs, Haute-Saône, Côte-d'Or, Haute-Marne and nearbyAt least 120 days after rennetingRubbed, solid, grainy, golden to brown
HerrgårdsostSwedenPasteurised cow milkMore than 3 months at 10–18 °CHard, springy and dry, paraffin-coated
L'EtivazSwitzerland, Vaud AlpsRaw milk from the alp's own summer pasture; whole morning milk plus naturally skimmed evening milk; no silageUntil at least day 135; à rebibes at least 30 months moreSlightly moist, evenly brownish smear (morge); à rebibes: smear removed, smooth, dry, yellowish
Le Gruyère AOPSwitzerland, cantons of Fribourg, Vaud, Neuchâtel and Jura, and parts of the canton of BernRaw milk from cows fed no silage, delivered twice a day from within 20 km, never cooled below 15 °CAt least 5 months at 12–18 °C on unplaned spruce boards in humid cellars
Montasio PDOItaly, all of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the provinces of Belluno and Treviso, and parts of Padua and VeniceCow milk from the production area only, raw or thermised, never pasteurisedAt least 60 days; at least 12 months for grating
Obwaldner AlpkäseSwitzerland, canton of ObwaldenFrom three months; mature at about eight months; can be kept two years
Queso ColoniaUruguay, Colonia department10–12 days
Swiss semi-hard regional Alpkäse (Bündner, St. Galler, Urner, Nidwaldner, Schwägalp)Switzerland, eastern and central Alps2–6 months
Tiroler BergkäseAustria, Tyrolat least 3 monthsSmeared and dried on, brownish-yellow to brown
Valle d'Aosta Fromadzo PDOItaly, the whole Autonomous Region of Valle d'AostaCow milk from at least two milkings, partly skimmed by resting; a little goat milk allowedAt least 60 days, up to 8–10 months
Vorarlberger Alpkäse PDOAustria, Vorarlberg, officially recognised alpine farms and Vorsäß/Maisäß pastures at about 1,000–1,800 mRaw alpine cow milk, silage-free; evening milk partly skimmed by handAt least 3 months at 10–17 °CDried, grainy, yellowish-brown to brown
Vorarlberger Bergkäse PDOAustria, VorarlbergRaw cow milk from Vorarlberg, partly skimmed; no silage or fermented feedAt least 3 monthsSmear-ripened to dried, brownish-yellow to brown and granular
AppenzellerAppenzell Innerrhoden and Ausserrhoden, and parts of St. Gallen and Thurgau, SwitzerlandRaw cow milk from cows fed only grass and hayAt least 3 months (Mild-Würzig); 4–5 months (Kräftig-Würzig)
BranziItaly, Lombardia2 monthsTreated with food oil; smooth, yellow to brown, thickening with age
Formaggio d'Alpe grassoItaly, Lombardiaat least 6 monthsSmooth, fairly thick, straw yellow (darker if oiled)
Garda TremosineItaly, Lombardiaat least 12 monthsThick, oiled with refined linseed oil, dark straw to brown, not edible
Greviera di OzieriItaly, Sardegna8 hClean, thin, straw darkening with age
Monte BaldoItaly, Trentino-Alto Adige, Prov. Trentoat least 7 monthsSmooth, fairly thick, straw to light brown
MontegraneroItaly, Piemonteat least 4 monthsHard, smooth, fairly thick, straw to brown, possible moulds
Asiago PDO (pressato/d'allevo)Veneto/Trentinocow milkFresco at least 20 days; stagionato over 90 days (mezzano 4–10 months, vecchio 10–15, stravecchio over 15)
Emmental de Savoie PGISavoiecow milk, raw≥75 d
Emmental français Est-Central PGIeast-central Francecow milk, raw≥12 wk
Formaggio d'alpe ticinese AOPTicinocow milk, (+G)≥60 d
Formai de Mut dell'Alta Valle Brembana PDOBergamocow milk≥45 d
Gailtaler Almkäse PDOCarinthiacow milk, (+≤10% G)≥7 wk
Graviera Kritis PDOCretesheep milk, (+G)≥5 mo
Graviera Naxou PDONaxoscow milk, (+S/G)≥3 mo
Hartkäse Gran Spicchio & Gran Dolomiti (Formaggio duro)Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Prov. Bolzano6–15 monthsHard, thick, rustic, dark straw
Kars gravyeriKarscow milk≥6 mo
Nanoški sir PDOSloveniacow milk≥60 d
Nostrano Valtrompia PDOBresciacow milk, raw≥12 mo
Piave PDOBellunocow milkfresco 20–60 d, vecchio ≥6 mo
Pleasant Ridge ReserveWisconsincow milk, raw seasonal≥6 mo
San Michali PDOSyroscow milk≥3 mo
Silter PDOValcamonicacow milk, raw≥100 d
Tiroler Almkäse/Alpkäse PDOTyrolcow milk, raw≥4 mo
Tolminc PDOSloveniacow milk, raw≥60 d
Valtellina Casera PDOValtellinacow milk, partly skimmed≥70 d
VästerbottensostBurträsk, Swedencow milk≥12–14 mo

Bold names have a full page with the animated steps. Blank cells: no sourced value yet.

Short entries

What the sources record about each of these so far.

Asiago PDO (pressato/d'allevo)Veneto/Trentino

two types

Milk
cow milk
Setting
Fresco: 35–40 °C for 15–25 min; stagionato: 33–37 °C for 15–30 min
Cooking
Fresco 44 ± 2 °C; stagionato 47 ± 2 °C
Ripening
Fresco at least 20 days; stagionato over 90 days (mezzano 4–10 months, vecchio 10–15, stravecchio over 15)
Size
Fresco 11–15 kg, 30–40 cm across; stagionato 8–12 kg, 30–36 cm across

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Emmental de Savoie PGISavoie

eyed

Milk
cow milk, raw
Ripening
≥75 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Emmental français Est-Central PGIeast-central France

eyed

Milk
cow milk, raw
Ripening
≥12 wk

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Formaggio d'alpe ticinese AOPTicino

alpine

Milk
cow milk, (+G)
Ripening
≥60 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Formai de Mut dell'Alta Valle Brembana PDOBergamo
Milk
cow milk
Ripening
≥45 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Gailtaler Almkäse PDOCarinthia
Milk
cow milk, (+≤10% G)
Ripening
≥7 wk

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Graviera Kritis PDOCrete

Greek gruyère

Milk
sheep milk, (+G)
Ripening
≥5 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Graviera Naxou PDONaxos
Milk
cow milk, (+S/G)
Ripening
≥3 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Hartkäse Gran Spicchio & Gran Dolomiti (Formaggio duro)Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Prov. Bolzano

Large cooked grana-like mountain wheel; granular, fairly crumbly, eyeless paste.

Rind
Hard, thick, rustic, dark straw
Size
Ø 40–45 cm, height 16–20 cm, 35–42 kg
  1. Prepare the milk
  2. Set the curd
  3. Cook the curd
  4. Mould and salt
  5. Ripen6–15 months
Kars gravyeriKars

Turkish gruyère since 19th c. (Swiss/Molokan link)

Milk
cow milk
Ripening
≥6 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Nanoški sir PDOSlovenia
Milk
cow milk
Ripening
≥60 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Nostrano Valtrompia PDOBrescia

saffron

Milk
cow milk, raw
Ripening
≥12 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Piave PDOBelluno
Milk
cow milk
Ripening
fresco 20–60 d, vecchio ≥6 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Pleasant Ridge ReserveWisconsin

Beaufort-style

Milk
cow milk, raw seasonal
Ripening
≥6 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

San Michali PDOSyros
Milk
cow milk
Ripening
≥3 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Silter PDOValcamonica
Milk
cow milk, raw
Ripening
≥100 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Tiroler Almkäse/Alpkäse PDOTyrol
Milk
cow milk, raw
Ripening
≥4 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Tolminc PDOSlovenia
Milk
cow milk, raw
Ripening
≥60 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Valtellina Casera PDOValtellina

semi-cooked

Milk
cow milk, partly skimmed
Ripening
≥70 d

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

VästerbottensostBurträsk, Sweden

curd repeatedly cut and heated ('scalded and stirred'), small eyes; only Burträsk

Milk
cow milk
Ripening
≥12–14 mo

Made like Cooked hard alpine cheese family (Comté, Gruyère and Emmentaler as templates).

Numbers come from cited sources and carry a label that says how each is known. How this atlas is made