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Cheese from France, Haute-Savoie
Raw whole milk from Abondance, Tarentaise or Montbéliarde cows is renneted in an open copper vat, cut into grains smaller than a centimetre and heated to 45–50 °C, so the paste is semi-cooked. The curd is lifted in a cloth into a hoop that gives the wheel its hollow sides, pressed at least seven hours and salted. It ripens at least 100 days on spruce boards, rubbed often with morge. Made in 7 steps over 3.6 months. The longest step, ripen on spruce, rubbed with morge, takes at least 3.3 months (Ministère de l'agriculture 2018) and runs at 10–13 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2018). Lactic cultures grown on whey from the previous batch or taken from a listed culture bank and Surface smear flora (morge), which the cloth-marked rind is shaped to hold do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 3.3 monthsSet[cdc-abon2018] | Ripen on spruce, rubbed with morge |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–13 °CSet[cdc-abon2018] | Ripen on spruce, rubbed with morge |
| Raw whole cow milk · Abondance, Tarentaise or Montbéliarde cows, with at least 45% Abondance-breed animals; no cream added or removed; heated only once, to 30–35 °C[cdc-abon2018] |
| Lactic cultures · Grown from the whey of an earlier batch, or commercial strains from the producers' culture bank[cdc-abon2018] |
| Calf rennet[cdc-abon2018] |
| Salt · Brine and dry salt[cdc-abon2018] |
| Starter: lactic cultures grown on whey from an earlier Abondance batch, or listed commercial cultures |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3.6 months
What changes: Starting material: raw whole milk from two milkings, kept cool
Dairies must rennet the two milkings before noon of the day after the oldest one.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Abondance is semi-cooked at 45–50 °C, cooler than fully cooked Alpine cheeses such as Beaufort or Comté, so its paste stays supple. It is smaller, at 6–12 kg, and the hoop gives it a concave heel. The specification links the small size to family herds on individual summer pastures and to farm making.
This is a raw-milk cheese. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Comté; Abondance is classed as semi-cooked. Cooking the cheese removes the risk.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli (risks ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The 1990s EU application credits the canons of the Abondance monastery with raising Abondance cattle and making cheese before the year 1000; the current specification dates their role to the 13th century. In 1381, 15 quintals of the cheese were sent to the papal conclave at Avignon. Alpine pastures were run by single families, which tied the cheese to farm making. It became an AOC in 1990.
