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Cheese from Swiss and French Jura and Alps, Allgäu, Vorarlberg
Raw cow milk is set in a copper vat, cut into fine grains and cooked to the mid-50s °C. The curd is pressed into large wheels, salted and ripened for months on spruce boards; in the eyed types a warm cellar lets propionic bacteria blow holes. Made in 8 steps over 5.6 months – 6.1 months. The longest step, ripen for months on spruce boards, takes at least 3.9 months (INAO 2013) and runs at 12–19 °C (Swiss Federal Office for Agriculture 1999). Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus helveticus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 3.9 monthsSet[comte-cdc][gruyere-blw][emmentaler-ch] | Ripen for months on spruce boards |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 12–19 °CSet[gruyere-blw][comte-cdc][emmentaler-ch] | Ripen for months on spruce boards |
| Acidity | pH 5.3Reported[bonilauri2026] | Collect the curd and press it |
| Raw cow milk · Comté PDO: never heated above 40 °C before renneting; Gruyère AOP: never cooled below 15 °C[comte-cdc][gruyere-blw] |
| Starter cultures · Comté PDO: a starter grown on raw whey is compulsory; Gruyère AOP: the dairy's own cultures[comte-cdc][gruyere-blw] |
| Propionic culture · For eyed types; the US Swiss standard requires propionic acid bacteria[cfr133-195] |
| Calf rennet[comte-cdc][gruyere-blw] |
| Salt · Dry salt or brine, then rubbed on the rind with brine or morge[comte-cdc][cfr133-195] |
| Starter: thermophilic cultures (natural whey or selected), plus Propionibacterium freudenreichii for eyed types |
Total time across the recorded steps: 5.6 months – 6.1 months
What changes: Starter and calf rennet go into raw milk in a copper vat and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
thermophilic starters begin souring the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The curd is cut very fine and cooked to 52–59 °C, then pressed into very large wheels and ripened for months. The grana cheeses cook as hot but use part-skimmed milk and age longer; eyed types add a warm cellar for propionic bacteria.
The milk is raw. A 2026 review notes that in Swiss hard cheese the cook, a pH drop to about 5.3 within 24 h and long ripening together remove pathogens, though mycobacteria need the full ripening. The UK NHS counts hard cheeses such as gruyère as safe in pregnancy, unpasteurised or not. US Swiss cheese must be at least 60 days old.
Hazards the sources name: Raw-milk pathogens and mycobacteria; the cook, a fast pH drop and long ripening remove them in Swiss hard cheese.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
A 1115 charter of the Rougemont priory mentions pressed cooked cheese (Gruyère registration summary).
