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Fermentation Atlas

Cheese from Switzerland, Bernese Oberland summer pastures

Berner Alpkäse / Berner Hobelkäse AOPBerner Alpkäse

On summer pastures, raw milk is made into cheese every day in an open copper kettle heated by a wood fire, soured with a whey culture kept going on the alp, cut with a harp and cooked to at least 50 °C. The pressed wheels are brined and smeared and ripen at least four and a half months; the best wheels stand and dry to at least 18 months as extra-hard Hobelkäse, planed into thin curls. Made in 9 steps over 23 months. The longest step, stand and dry into Hobelkäse, takes at least 18 months (Bundesamt für Landwirtschaft BLW 2004) and runs at up to 20 °C (Bundesamt für Landwirtschaft BLW 2004). Thermophilic lactic acid bacteria of the alp's own whey culture and The Agroscope Liebefeld starter, which dominated the whey cultures of 16 alps sampled in 2021 do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 18 monthsSet[pfl-berner]Stand and dry into Hobelkäse
Temperatureup to 20 °CSet[pfl-berner]Stand and dry into Hobelkäse

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe specification fixes limits, not a recipe. Each wheel is 28–48 cm across and weighs 5–16 kg; up to two batches a day per alp.
Raw alpine cow milk · Cows eat at least 90% alp forage (by dry matter); only cooling allowed; no added whey cream[pfl-berner]
Thermophilic whey culture (Fettsirte) · Grown on the alp each day; each season starts from an Agroscope Liebefeld culture[pfl-berner][agroscope2025]
Rennet[pfl-berner]
Salt · Saturated brine, then rubbed on[pfl-berner]
Smear water with salt, and optionally wine, cider, vinegar, spices or herbs[pfl-berner]
Starter: thermophilic whey culture (Fettsirte), backslopped daily, plus rennet

Total time across the recorded steps: 23 months

Start
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What changes: Starting material: raw milk from cows grazing summer pastures

Step 1 of 9
Milk on the alp
Time
up to 15 h
Set
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria

Made only in the local summer season, never before 10 May or after 10 October. Evening and morning milk are mixed; the milk may only be cooled.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Unlike valley cheeses such as Gruyère, Berner Alpkäse is made only in summer on the alp itself, in an open copper kettle over a wood fire, with a whey culture kept going from day to day. Its Hobelkäse form is the same cheese stood on end and dried for a year or more, then planed rather than cut.

Milk
Raw milk from cows on alpine summer pastures, made daily on the alp
Cooking
At least 50 °C, in a copper kettle over a wood fire
Ripening
Alpkäse at least 4½ months; Hobelkäse at least 18 months
Size
28–48 cm across, 5–16 kg

Related ferments

Variants

  • Berner HobelkäseTop-grade Alpkäse taken out of the cellar after at least 6 months, smear removed, and dried standing until at least 18 months old.

Safety

Made from raw milk, but cooked to at least 50 °C, pressed and ripened at least four and a half months, so it is a hard cooked cheese. ANSES exempts hard cooked cheeses from its raw-milk advice, and the NHS lists hard cheeses, pasteurised or not, as safe in pregnancy.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Rennet has been used in Bernese Oberland cheese-making since about 1500, and Stumpf's chronicle of 1548 praises the region's alp cheeses as Sibenthaler and Saanerkäss. Alp cheese became an important trade in the 17th century, and today's practice differs little from instructions written for alp dairies in 1872. Hobelkäse comes from the habit of drying food to keep it and is planed into thin curls. Both names were registered as AOPs in 2004.

  1. [pfl-berner] Bundesamt für Landwirtschaft BLW, Pflichtenheft Berner Alpkäse und Berner Hobelkäse (GUB/AOP), registered 26 March 2004, amended up to 19 June 2018 (CasAlp copy, read via the Internet Archive)spec
  2. [blw-berner2004] Office fédéral de l'agriculture OFAG, Résumé de la demande d'enregistrement du Berner Alpkäse et Berner Hobelkäse, Registre des AOP/IGP, 26 March 2004gov
  3. [agroscope2025] Schmidt R. (Agroscope) and Feller M. (BFH-HAFL) 2025, Der Charakter des Berner Alpkäses, montagna 6/2025, pp. 10–11web
  4. [anses2022] ANSES 2022, Fromages au lait cru, quels risques pour la santé et comment mieux les prévenir (8 April 2022)gov
  5. [nhs-preg] NHS, Foods to avoid in pregnancy (cheese section)gov