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Cheese from Made at Gorwydd, the family farm in west Wales, until 2014
Gorwydd is a farmhouse Caerphilly made by the Trethowan brothers, first on their parents' farm in west Wales and since 2014 in Somerset, from the milk of a single herd (raw, says its Slow Food profile). It follows the Caerphilly method of large curd, a low scald, milling, salting and light pressing, then matures for two to four months under a natural rind. Under the rind a soft, mushroomy layer forms around a crumbly, lemony centre. Made in 5 steps over 2 months – 4 months. The longest step, mature under a natural rind, takes 2–4 months (Neal's Yard Dairy (maturer and seller)). Salt is 1 % (Defra). Lactococcus starter strains of the Caerphilly method does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–4 monthsReported[nyd-gorwydd] | Mature under a natural rind |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 28–32 °CReported[caerphilly-pgi] | Ripen the raw milk with starter |
| Salt | 1 %Reported[caerphilly-pgi] | Mill, salt, mould and press lightly |
| Raw cow milk from a single herd · One retailer's ingredient list says pasteurised; see the qa note[slowfood-trethowan][nyd-gorwydd] |
| Cheese cultures (described as local heritage starters)[slowfood-trethowan][nyd-gorwydd] |
| Animal rennet[nyd-gorwydd] |
| Salt[nyd-gorwydd] |
| Starter: cheese cultures (heritage starters); animal rennet |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 4 months
What changes: Starter goes into the raw milk of one herd and begins to sour it
Output: ripened raw milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Most Caerphilly is eaten young, from 10 days. Gorwydd is matured for two to four months under a natural rind, so a soft, mushroomy layer grows in from the rind around a crumbly, lemony centre.
Its Slow Food profile says raw milk, while one seller's label says pasteurised. In laboratory raw-milk Caerphilly, Mycobacterium bovis was concentrated in the curd and was inactivated during maturing, with D-values of 59 days (high inoculum) and 24 days (low inoculum); more starter and faster acid development improved its inactivation.
Hazards the sources name: Mycobacterium bovis, studied in laboratory raw-milk Caerphilly (not in Gorwydd itself).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Todd Trethowan learned to make Caerphilly from the Somerset cheesemaker Chris Duckett and began making it with his brother Maugan on their parents' farm, Gorwydd, in west Wales. Gorwydd was their first cheese. In 2014 they moved the dairy to Somerset, near Cheddar, where they later added a cheddar.
