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Cheese from Wales
Welsh cow milk, raw or pasteurised, is ripened with lactococcus starter at 28–32 °C, set with rennet and cut into large cubes to keep moisture in. The curd is scalded only to 32–35 °C, drained, turned until its acidity rises, milled with 1 % salt and lightly pressed. The flat round cheese can be eaten from 10 days old, with a mild, lemony taste, or matured up to 6 months. Made in 9 steps over 11 days – 6 months. The longest step, mature cool, takes 10 days – 6 months (Defra 2012) and runs at 10–12 °C (Defra 2012). Salt is 1 % (Defra 2012). Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris and L. lactis biovar diacetylactis does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 10 days – 6 monthsSet[caerphilly-pgi] | Mature cool |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–12 °CSet[caerphilly-pgi] | Mature cool |
| Salt | 1 %Set[caerphilly-pgi] | Mill, salt and mould |
| 97.5 % | Cow milk · Welsh milk, raw or pasteurised, organic or not[caerphilly-pgi] |
| 0.5 % | Milk cultures · Strains such as Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris and L. lactis biovar diacetylactis[caerphilly-pgi] |
| 15–30 ml in 100 ml water per 100 L milk | Rennet[caerphilly-pgi] |
| 1–2 % | Salt · 1 % dry salt at milling; brine or a little rubbed salt may add more[caerphilly-pgi] |
| Starter | mesophilic lactococcus cultures (L. lactis subsp. cremoris, L. lactis biovar diacetylactis); rennet |
Total time across the recorded steps: 11 days – 6 months
What changes: Lactococcus starter goes into Welsh cow milk, which ripens for 30–60 min at 28–32 °C
Output: ripened milk.
Microbes at work in this step
lactococci begin to sour the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Caerphilly curd is cut into large cubes and scalded only to 32–35 °C, lower than for other hard cheeses, so it keeps its moisture and is ready in 10 days. Cheddar curd, by contrast, is cut to the size of rice grains.
The cheese may be made from raw milk. In laboratory raw-milk Caerphilly, Mycobacterium bovis was concentrated in the curd and fell slowly in ripening, with D-values of 59 days (high inoculum) and 24 days (low inoculum). Faster acid development from more starter improved its inactivation.
Hazards the sources name: Mycobacterium bovis, studied in laboratory raw-milk Caerphilly; it is concentrated in the curd and only slowly inactivated during ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Cheesemaking along the Glamorgan coast is recorded in 1552–3, and cheese left Cardiff often in the 17th century. In the mid-19th century the weekly market at Caerphilly became known for cheese, and caretaker Edward Lewis graded and stamped good cheeses until his death in 1909. Annie Evans wrote down a recipe in 1907. Dairy schools from 1889 shaped the method. Making it was banned during the 1939–45 war, and creameries took it up again in the late 1950s; Caerphilly Castle's 700th birthday in 1971 was marked with a special making.
