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Alcoholic drinks from Altiplano of central-northern Mexico
Colonche is a short-fermented, purple-red wine of cactus fruit. In the Altiplano, peeled prickly pears are crushed by hand into old unglazed clay pots in the evening and left overnight, so wild yeasts and lactic bacteria ferment the juice in about 12 hours. The seeds are sieved out and it is drunk fresh during the fruit season. Made in 6 steps over 12 h. The longest step, cover with a thin cloth and ferment overnight, takes 12 h (Ojeda-Linares C.I 2020) and runs at 25–30 °C (Ojeda-Linares C.I 2020). Saccharomyces, the main yeast in both spontaneous and inoculated colonche and Lactobacillus (about half of the bacteria), Leuconostoc and Pediococcus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 12 hMeasured[ojeda2020][ojeda2022] | Cover with a thin cloth and ferment overnight |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25–30 °CReported[ojeda2020] | Cover with a thin cloth and ferment overnight |
| Two 25 L buckets | Peeled ripe prickly pears (Opuntia streptacantha preferred) · Red fruit is preferred; yellow or white fruit is added when red is scarce[ojeda2020] |
| No water · Makers keep water out; they say it spoils the flavour, turns the drink from purple to brown and sours it[ojeda2020] | |
| No starter in the spontaneous method · The microbes come from the fruit and the old clay pot[ojeda2020][ojeda2022] | |
| Starter | spontaneous in most places; some makers add pulque or colonche saved from an earlier batch |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 h
What changes: Starting material: ripe red prickly pears cut from the cactus
Season August to September in the Altiplano; April–May and August–September for columnar cacti in south-central Mexico. Output: ripe prickly pears.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Colonche ferments for hours, not weeks. The fruit goes straight into the pot without water or added yeast, and the decades-old clay pots, never washed with soap, carry the microbes from one batch to the next.
Sequencing found genus-level DNA of Staphylococcus and Clostridium in cooked and inoculated samples, while Lactobacillus made up about half the bacteria through most of the fermentation. No safety study of colonche was found.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus and Clostridium (genus-level DNA in cooked and inoculated samples).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The name comes from the Nahuatl nochoctli, from nochtli (cactus fruit) and octli (fermented agave sap). It was made and drunk before the Spanish conquest by the northern peoples the Aztecs called Chichimeca, and the Altiplano was once known as the Tunal Grande for its prickly pears. It is now listed as a drink at risk of disappearing, and Laguna de Guadalupe holds a colonche fair each September.
