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Alcoholic drinks from Central Mexico
A mature agave is castrated and its central cavity scraped so that it fills with sweet sap, aguamiel, which is collected twice a day. Mixed with a seed of older pulque, the sap ferments in a few hours into a milky, viscous, slightly sour drink of about 4–7 % alcohol. Made in 6 steps over 6.5 years – 17 years. The longest step, grow the agave to maturity, takes 6–15 years (Escalante A 2016). Zymomonas mobilis and Saccharomyces cerevisiae and other yeasts do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–15 yearsReported[escalante2016] | Grow the agave to maturity |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 3.5–4Set[nmx-v-037][escalante2016] | Serve plain or curado |
| Fresh aguamiel · Filtered to remove insects and debris before it goes into the vat[escalante2016] | |
| About 2 L of pulque to a ~20 L vat of aguamiel | Seed (semilla), for the first starter · The seed then goes into clean vats, where fresh aguamiel is added[escalante2016] |
| Starter | back-slop (semilla, a mature pulque starter) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6.5 years – 17 years
What changes: The agave grows for years before it is ready to give sap
Output: mature maguey.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Pulque starts from sap, not grain or fruit, and it is fermented by a bacterium as much as by yeast. Zymomonas mobilis makes ethanol alongside Saccharomyces, and Zymomonas and Leuconostoc make the slime that gives pulque its thread. It is fermented for hours, not days, and drunk raw.
Pulque is unpasteurised and keeps fermenting, so it is drunk fresh. The Mexican pulque norm (NMX-V-037-1972) sets pH 3.5–4.2 and 4–9 % alcohol for pulque sold in bulk. Enteric bacteria such as Enterobacter agglomerans are common in the first hours, before the acid builds up, so clean vats and fresh sap matter. WHO says no level of alcohol use is safe for health.
Hazards the sources name: Enterobacter agglomerans, the most abundant non-lactic bacterium in the first 3 h.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Bacterial markers of Zymomonas mobilis in potsherds show that pulque was kept in pottery at La Ventilla, Teotihuacan, around 200–550 AD. By the early twentieth century, production reached about 500 million L a year.
