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Alcoholic drinks from Central Mexico
Octli was the fermented agave sap of ancient Mesoamerica, the drink the Spanish later called pulque. Residues in pottery show it was made and stored at Teotihuacan around AD 200–550, and 16th-century accounts describe boiling the sap and adding a root to speed the ferment. The sap method itself has changed little since then. Made in 5 steps over 6 months – 18 months. The longest step, castrate the agave and let it mature, takes 3–12 months (Escalante A 2016). Zymomonas mobilis, traced in ancient pottery by its hopanoid lipids and Saccharomyces cerevisiae do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3–12 monthsReported[escalante2016] | Castrate the agave and let it mature |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 3–4Reported[correa-ascencio2014] | Ferment with a seed of old pulque |
| Aguamiel (agave sap) · Scraped from the cavity of a castrated agave[escalante2016][correa-ascencio2014] |
| Seed of older pulque · The ferment is started from an earlier batch[escalante2016] |
| Ocpatli root (Acacia angustissima), sometimes · Added to speed the fermentation, as described by Sahagún[alvarez-rios2020] |
| Starter: backslop (seed of older pulque), sometimes with ocpatli root |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6 months – 18 months
What changes: The heart of the agave is cut out, leaving a cavity that will fill with sap
Output: agave ready to give sap.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
This entry is the ancient drink as archaeology and early accounts show it. Compared with modern pulque it adds the boiling of the sap and the ocpatli root, both recorded by Sahagún, and storage in resin-sealed amphorae at Teotihuacan.
The ancient method had no controls. Modern bulk pulque has a Mexican standard (pH 3.5–4.2 and 4–9 % alcohol under NMX-V-037-1972); see the pulque entry.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The earliest chemical evidence for pulque comes from Teotihuacan. Of 313 sherds from Teotihuacan, 14 from La Ventilla, dated about AD 200–550, carried hopanes from Zymomonas mobilis. The authors argue it was a dietary supplement to maize, supplying vitamins and minerals. In Aztec belief pulque was linked to Mayahuel. Under Spanish rule pulque became one of the main colonial industries, and by the late 19th century trains carried it daily from more than 300 haciendas and tinacales.
